California's heritage wine

Sunset, Oct, 1995 by Lora J. Finnegan

Montevina Winery, 20680 Shenandoah School Rd., Plymouth; 245-6942. Open 11 to 4 daily. Outside the big, cool tasting room, shaded picnic table are frequented by bicycle tourists. The winery's Brioso Zinfandel, made in a fruity Beaujolais style emphasizing strawberries and cherries is designed to be drunk while it's young.

Renwood Winery, 12225 Steiner Rd., Plymouth; 245-6979. Open 11 to 4:30 daily. If you like large-scale, expressive wines, you'll enjoy the vigorous, well-oaked Zinfandels; we agree with one recent taster who called the 1992 Grandpere "big, rich, and boastful." Walk across the street to see the gnarled. 125-year-old Grandpere vines.

Shenandoah Vineyards, 12300 Steiner Rd., Plymouth: 245-4455. Open 10 to 5 daily.. The winery is proud of its past (note the numerous wine award ribbons backing the tasting counter), but it looks to the future (modern art decorates the barrel rooms). Atop a small hill, a few picnic tables command lovely views over red- and goldswathed vineyards.

Sobon Estate, 14430 Shenandoah Rd., Plymouth; 245-6554. Open 10 to 5 daily. Lush landscaping and shaded picnic tables greet you as you enter the cool, cavernous tasting room and gift shop. Vines nearly a century old are the source of Sobon's Zinfandels. Founded in 1856 as the winery of the pioneering d'Agostini family, Sobon is also the home of the Shenandoah Valley Museum, a handsome stone building featuring an array of early winemaking equipment and brooding old redwood vats.

Paso Robles: A Winemaker's Showcase

This is one of the most extreme grape-growing climates in the state, with very hot days that can be suddenly cooled by ocean breezes through the Templeton Gap. It can produce a Zin with lots of acidity, strong black-pepper notes, and great intensity of fruit, from strawberry to black cherry. On the other hand, wine writer Gerald Asher has described Paso Robles Zins as "amiable rather than assertive," wines that -- more so than Zins from many other regions -- allow individual winemakers to put their personal stamp on a vintage. A string of good years preceded last year's devastating September rains, which caused bunch rot in some vineyards and earmarked a lot of 1994 grapes for white Zinfandel.

For many years, Zinfandel was the only grape of consequence here, and it remains so popular that about 25 wineries produce it. Each March in Paso Robles, vintners and growers host Zinfandel Weekend, a celebration of the grape; for details and a complete guide to area wineries, call (805) 239-8463.

Using Paso Robles as the base for your touring, you might overnight at the California Craftsman-style Gillie Archer Inn at 1433 Oak Street (238-0879) or the modest but comfortable Adelaide Motor Inn at 1215 Ysabel Avenue (238-2770). The Vine Street Grill specializes in hearty steaks, seafood, and pasta; it's at 13th Street and Vine in Paso Robles (238-7515).

Eberle Winery, on State 46 East, 3 1/2 miles east of Paso Robles; 238-9607. Open 10 to 5 daily. Gary Eberle is a local legend, having started making wine here two decades ago. The comfortable tasting room overlooks picnic tables and vineyards beyond. The wines are well balanced and elegant, with plenty of fruit; look for the highly praised Sauret Vineyard bottling.