Tastes from main street America and beyond - includes recipes

Sunset, Oct, 1995 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

When we travel, most of us don't want to be onlookers -- we want to be part of the scene. Nowhere is this desire more easily gratified than in comfortable neighborhood restaurants. It's here local folk gather to eat, gossip, sip a little wine or coffee, and linger -- and they seldom hesitate to direct a few opening questions at a stranger like yourself. You rarely find these places in guidebooks among the three-star dining meccas, and seldom are they in the chic part of a city. Often they look a little worn, although welcoming.

These are the bistros of France, the trattorias of Italy, and the diners of America -- and they are also the inspiration behind Sunset Books's newest series, Casual Cuisines of the World. The first three volumes, now available in major bookstores ($19.95 each), pay respect to the comfort foods of France, Italy, and the United States. The authors have both professional credentials and firsthand involvement with their topics. Gerald Hirigoyen, who wrote Bistro, The Best of Casual French Cooking, is French-born and the classically trained chef and owner of San Francisco's highly acclaimed Fringale. Mary Beth Clark, author of Trattoria, The Best of Casual Italian Cooking, has a cooking school in Milan and divides her time between there and this country. And Southern California author Diane Rossen Worthington, with many cookbooks to her credit., wrote Diner, The Best of Casual American Cooking. Those who live in or near Los Angeles know her well as the host of KABC's talk show "California Foods."

Each 128-page book provides you with basics geared to the country's cuisine, recipe names in the native language and English, beverage suggestions ranging from wines to malted milks, and measurements in both American standard and metric.

As for the recipes, here's a sampling.

From Chef Gerald Hirigoyen's Bistro:

Sauteed Shrimp with Fried

Garlic and Baked Tomato

Gambas Sautees a L'ail, Tomates au Four

Fresh shrimp, sauteed in butter, garlic, and herbs, Is a classic bistro standby. In this recipe, baked tomatoes give the dish still more substance and bright color. Vine-ripened tomatoes provide the best flavor If they are difficult to find, you might consider substituting a bed of steamed spinach in their place, Serve a crusty baguette alongside for sopping up all the delicious juices. Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes Prep time: About 25 minutes Makes: 4 servings

4 tomatoes (about 1 1/2 lb. total) Salt and freshly ground pepper 6 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound (30 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Dash of cayenne

1. Cut tomatoes in half crosswise and place them, cut side up. in a close-fitting ovenproof dish. Season tomatoes to taste with salt and pepper, and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Bake in a 450[degrees] oven until heated through but still firm, about 15 minutes. 2. About 3 minutes before the tomatoes are done, pour I tablespoon o I into a wide frying pan and place over high heat. When oil is hot, add the shrimp and stir often until they are pink and firm, 9 to 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. 3. Transfer the baked tomatoes to individual serving dishes. Place the sauteed shrimp on top of the tomatoes, dividing them evenly. Keep warm. 4. In a small pan over high heat, combine the garlic and the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Stir often until the garlic turns golden brown, about 1 minute. 5. Add vinegar to pan, and stir to dislodge any browned bits, about 30 seconds. Immediately pour mixture over the tomatoes and sauteed shrimp. Sprinkle parsley and cayenne evenly over the shrimp mixture, and serve at once.

Per serving: 317 cal., 62% (198 cal.) from fat; 20 g protein; 22 g fat (3.1 g sat.); 9.8 g carbo.; 153 mg sodium; 140 mg chol.

From Mary Beth Clark's Trattoria:

Orecchiette with Broccoli

Rabe, Garlic, and Pine Nuts

Orecchiette con Cime di Rabe,

Aglio, e Pinoli

A variety of small, round pasta shaped like little ears, orecchiette is typically found in southern Italian trattorias, especially in Apulia. Cooking time: About 30 minutes Prep time: 30 to 40 minutes Notes: Broccoli rabe has longer stems, smaller flower heads, and a somewhat more bitter flavor than regular broccoli, which can be substituted. Makes: 4 servings

1 pound broccoli rabe 3/4 pound dried orecchiette pasta 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion 1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz.) pine nuts 1 or 2 fresh small red chilies, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into thin rings 4 teaspoons chopped garlic 1 1/2 cups vegetable or meat broth 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves (optional) Salt and freshly ground pepper Freshly grated Italian parmesan or pecorino romano cheese

1. Trim any tough portions from the broccoli rabe, then cut the stems and leaves into I -inch lengths; leave the florets whole. Place the stems on a steamer rack over (not touching) gently boiling water. Cover and steam 2 to 3 minutes. Add the leaves and florets, and steam until cooked through yet firm when pierced, 2 to 3 minutes longer Remove from the rack and set aside. 2. Fill a deep pan 3/4 full of salted water and bring to a rolling boil. Add the pasta, and stir gently to prevent pieces from sticking. Cook until just tender to bite, 10 to 12 minutes or according to package directions. 3. Meanwhile, in a large frying pan over medium heat, melt the butter in the olive oil. Add the onion and pine nuts, and stir often until the onion is translucent and the pine nuts are lightly golden, about 3 minutes; do not allow the onion to brown. Add the chilies and garlic, and stir often for a few seconds until very fragrant. Add the broccoli rabe, and stir often for 2 minutes. Add the broth, bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce de heat to low and simmer for 1 minute. 4. Drain orecchiette briefly in a colander, and immediately add k to the frying pan. Mix well. Add parsley and cilantro and mix again. Season to We with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and sprinkle with cheese.