The slow lane preserved in southern Oregon

Sunset, April, 1996 by Peter Fish

Drive the Old Stage Road, then visit Jacksonville

Small towns and lazy country roads are practically endangered species. But in southern Oregon, beautiful examples of each are thriving, thanks in part to the hard work of local residents.

As Western byways go, Old Stage Road is ancient. It dates from the 1850s, when gold seekers and farmers began pouring into the Rogue River Valley and settling in towns like Jacksonville at the road's southern terminus. For most of this century, Old Stage has been a poky two-lane highway running roughly parallel to Interstate 5, its hills, curves, and quirks beloved by the people who lived along it.

Then, three years ago, Jackson County officials announced that they wanted to widen and straighten Old Stage.

"When you undo something historical, you can never return it." That's how Irma Mikula, and many others, felt. They banded together as the Westside Neighbors Association to halt or at least alter the project, holding meetings and fund-raisers and inspiring the national group Scenic America to name Old Stage among America's 10 most endangered scenic byways of 1994.

Two years later, the neighbors have prevailed. The county now plans to redesign the road in such a way that it can safely support additional traffic but still retain its historic integrity.

Right now you can enjoy the road in its unaltered state (construction on the redesign won't start until 1997). If you are driving south on I-5, pick up the road at Gold Hill. If you are driving north, exit I-5 at Medford, and take Oregon Highway 238 west to Jacksonville. From here, take Oregon Street north; it becomes Old Stage Road, which runs north for 11 miles to intersect with I-5. Along the way you have eastern views across the verdant Rogue River Valley and beyond to Mount McLoughlin.

Given the road's ancestry as a vital Rogue River Valley route, it's fitting that today it boasts two roadside inns. Old Stage Inn (883 Old Stage; 800/877-8243) occupies an 1857 farmhouse built by pioneer William Bybee. Today's owners, Hugh and Carla Jones, serve wonderful breakfasts. Rates start at $90. A little bit north is Colonial House Bed & Breakfast (1845 Old Stage; 800/397-2515), so much a model of Georgian country elegance that you half-expect to see Tom Jones riding to hounds across its 5-acre grounds. Rates start at $95.

IN JACKSONVILLE

After your jaunt up or down Old Stage, turn your attention to Jacksonville. With its 19th-century downtown, its antiques shops and inns, Jacksonville walks that narrow line between charming and precious. So far, charm wins out.

Your first stop should be the Jacksonville Information Center, in the old Rogue River Valley Railway Station (185 N. Oregon St.; 503/899-8118), where you can pick up maps and brochures. The Jacksonville Museum of Southern Oregon History (206 N. Fifth St.; 773-6536) occupies the stately 1883 former Jackson County Courthouse. Permanent exhibits include works by pioneer photographer Peter Britt.

For dining, two of Jacksonville's best restaurants are in historic inns. The two- story, red-brick Jacksonville Inn (175 E. California St.; 800/321-9344) dates from 1863. You dine downstairs (specialties include rack of lamb and salmon, with a good selection of Northwest wines) and can stay upstairs in one of eight smartly appointed rooms; rates from $80, The McCully House Inn (240 E. California; 800/367-1942) dates from 1860. Here, chef William Prahl gives an international spin to Northwest cuisine, and the three guest rooms have an appealing Victorian earnestness about them; rates from $95.

If you're in Jacksonville in summer, hit The Britt Festivals, a first-rate gathering of classical, folk, and other musicians performing in a natural amphitheater. This year's festival runs June 14 through September 1. For tickets and a brochure, call (800) 882-7488.