Good-bye guilt!!! - low-fat cheesecakes - includes recipes - Cover Story

Sunset, April, 1997 by Linda Lau Anusasananan, Elaine Johnson

A low-fat cheesecake for every taste, whether you crave pure chocolate or berries and cream

In a perfect world, indulging in desserts would leave no evidence. And even in a big slice of cheesecake, calories and fat wouldn't count.

Well, the world still isn't flawless, but cheesecake has moved a bite closer to "perfection" without losing those rich, creamy qualities we crave.

The reason is simple - more dairy options with a healthier attitude are at your fingertips. The old nonfat and low-fat standards have been joined by a growing number of new products. And fresh nonfat yogurt cheese is still one of the best-kept secrets in the kitchen. You have to make your own, but, fortunately, it takes almost no effort (see details, page 106).

So now you can make guilt-free cheesecakes in any style you yearn for - velvety and dense, fluffy and fragile, plain or flavored, traditional or new wave. Take your pick. They're all here.

Cheesecake Cloud with Berries

Prep and cook time: About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 3 hours to chill

Notes: Drain about 3 quarts nonfat yogurt to make the cheese for this cheesecake. The texture is most delicate if you drain the yogurt for the minimum time and firmer if cheese is well drained.

Makes: 8 to 10 servings

2/3 cup graham cracker crumbs 1 1/2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine 3 large eggs, separated 1 large egg white 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cups sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 4 cups nonfat yogurt cheese (below) 1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 tablespoons currant jelly 1 cup raspberries, rinsed and drained dry

1. Combine crumbs and melted butter. Pat evenly over bottom of an 8-inch cheesecake pan (at least 3 1/2 in. deep) with removable rim.

2. Bake in a 325 [degrees] oven until crust is slightly browner, about 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, with a mixer on high speed, beat the 4 egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl until foamy. Gradually add cup sugar, about 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until the whites hold stiff, shiny peaks.

4. In another large bowl, stir remaining sugar with cornstarch, then add egg yolks, cheese, lemon peel, and vanilla. Beat (with unwashed beaters) until well blended.

5. Fold beaten whites into cheese mixture. Scrape the batter into hot or cool crust.

6. Bake in a 325 [degrees] oven until center barely jiggles when cake is gently shaken, 50 to 60 minutes. Run a thin-bladed knife between cake and pan rim. Refrigerate cake, uncovered, until cool, at least 3 hours. (If making ahead, cover when cool and chill up to 1 day.)

7. Melt jelly (in a microwave oven or in a small pan over medium heat), stirring often. Cool, stirring occasionally, until jelly becomes a thick syrup, about 5 minutes.

8. Remove pan rim. Mound berries on cake and drizzle with jelly. To neatly cut this fluffy dessert, hold a long strand of string (such as dental floss) taut, slide it under the berries to the center of the cake, and push the string down to the pan. Slide out string and repeat to cut wedges. (If using a knife, wipe blade clean between cuts.) Slide a pie server under each wedge and lift out gently.

Per serving: 278 cal., 12% (34 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 3.8 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 46 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); 177 mg sodium; 68 mg chol.

Classic Creamy Cheesecake

Prep and cook time: About 1 hour, plus at least 2 1/2 hours to chill

Notes: Drain about 4 quarts nonfat yogurt to make 5 cups cheese.

Makes: 12 servings

1 cup graham cracker crumbs 2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine 4 large eggs 1 1/4 cups sugar 5 cups nonfat yogurt cheese (see instructions at left) 1 tablespoon vanilla Whole or sliced strawberries (optional)

1. Combine crumbs and melted butter. Pat evenly over bottom and about 1/2 inch up the side of a removable-rim 9-inch cheesecake or cake pan (at least 1 3/4 in. deep).

2. Bake in a 350 [degrees] oven until crust is slightly browner, 10 to 12 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, use a fork to blend eggs, 1 cup sugar, 3 cups cheese, and vanilla until well mixed. Scrape mixture into hot or cool crust.

4. Bake in a 350 [degrees] oven just until center jiggles only slightly when cake is gently shaken, 40 to 45 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, stir remaining cheese with remaining sugar until smooth. Spoon onto cake and gently spread to cover top.

6. Return to oven and bake to firm topping slightly, about 10 minutes. Run a thin-bladed knife between cake and pan rim. Refrigerate cake, uncovered, until cool, at least 2 hours.

7. Serve, or if making ahead, wrap airtight and chill up to 1 day. Remove pan rim and garnish cake with berries; cut into wedges.

Per serving: 254 cal., 15% (38 cal.) from fat; 13 g protein; 4.2 g fat (1.7 g sat.); 38 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 189 mg sodium; 76 mg chol.

Ricotta Cheesecake with Ginger and Kiwi

Prep and cook time: About 1 hour, plus at least 2 1/2 hours to chill

Notes: Drain at least 3 cups nonfat yogurt to make 1 cup yogurt cheese, or use nonfat cream cheese instead.

Makes: 10 servings

2/3 cup (about 3 oz.) gingersnap cookie crumbs

1/2 cup minced crystallized ginger