Good-bye guilt!!! - low-fat cheesecakes - includes recipes - Cover Story

Sunset, April, 1997 by Linda Lau Anusasananan, Elaine Johnson

7. Remove pan rim and cut cake into wedges.

Per serving: 209 cal., 25% (52 cal.) from fat; 10 g protein; 5.8 g fat (2.9 g sat.); 32 g carbo (0 g fiber); 356 mg sodium; 43 mg chol.

Nonfat yogurt cheese: zero fat, big flavor

Drained yogurt can get as thick as cream cheese. And if you use non-fat yogurt, this cream cheese equivalent has no fat.

It takes at least 24 hours for yogurt to drain enough to use in baking, but the cheese is thicker and creamier if drained longer. The volume of cheese you get varies, as some brands of yogurt drain more than others. Also, some seeping may occur in the cheesecake if it stands a day or more. This is normal; just blot up the moisture.

Nonfat Yogurt Cheese

Prep and cook time: About 5 minutes, plus 24 hours to 4 days for draining

Notes: Do not use yogurt with gelatin; it will not drain. Improvise a drainer or buy one; sources follow. Discard cheese with mold or soured aroma.

Makes: 1 1/3 cups (about 3/4 lb.) to 1 3/4 cups (about 1 lb.) cheese

1. Set a strainer or colander over a deep pan or bowl, supporting it so base of strainer is at least 2 inches above pan bottom.

2. Line strainer with 2 layers of cheesecloth or a clean muslin or linen towel. Dump 1 quart (2 lb.) plain non-fat yogurt into cloth. Enclose strainer and pan with plastic wrap to keep airtight.

3. Chill at least 24 hours or up to 4 days, pouring off whey as it accumulates. Shorter draining produces a moister cheese and more volume. Longer draining produce, s a thicker cheese and less volume.

4. Scrape yogurt cheese from cloth and use, or store airtight up to 9 days from when draining began. Drain off any whey that accumulates.

Per cup: 212 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 24 g protein; 0 g fat; 23 g carbo (0 g fiber); 212 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

YOGURT CHEESE MAKERS

Drainers and funnels designed to make yogurt cheese are available in cookware and hardware stores. Most make only a cup or so of cheese at a time. Prices for units range from $8.50 for a set of two funnels to $20 for a self-contained unit. Mail-order sources are listed here.

Chef's Catalog, 3215 Commercial Ave., Northbrook, IL 60002; (800) 3383232.

Sur La Table, Catalog Division, 410 Terry Ave. N., Seattle, WA 98109; (800) 243-0852. Retail stores in San Francisco, Berkeley, Seattle, and Kirkland, Washington.

TV Chefs, Box 84848, Seattle, WA 98124; (800) 288-7834. Sells a quart-size yogurt strainer; ask for item number LGYS 132.

The skinny on dairy

When fat is removed from milk, cheese, or yogurt, the milk solid and milk sugar content increase proportionally, significantly raising the calcium (and protein and carbohydrate) levels. These dramatic differences may influence your choice of ingredients.

PER               CAL.               %           CALCIUM
1 CUP             (FAT CAL.)         FAT         G

SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK

nonfat            880 (0)            0           800
low fat           960 (108)          11          800
whole             982 (243)          25          869

COTTAGE CHEESE

nonfat            161 (0)            0           201
2% fat            203 (40)           20          154
regular           216 (86)           40          126

CREAM CHEESE

nonfat            200 (0)            0           640
light             560 (360)          64          320
regular           792 (711)          90          181

RICOTTA CHEESE

nonfat            240 (0)            0           1,278
low fat           240 (90)           38          399
part skim         339 (171)          50          669
whole milk        428 (288)          67          509

SOUR CREAM

nonfat             280 (0)           0           320
low fat            280 (144)         51          320
regular            492 (432)         88          267

YOGURT CHEESE

nonfat             212 (0)           0           743
low fat            265 (72)          27          637
whole              442 (279)         63          514