Bed, breakfast, and hiking boots

Sunset, Oct, 1998 by Claire Martin, Linda Lau Anusasananan, Nora Burba Trulsson, Peter Fish, Jena MacPherson, Lora J. Finnegan

It is a conflict as old as humankind - the passion for adventure versus the equally powerful desire to be coddled. Think of the luxury-loving Athenians versus the rugged if grumpy Spartans, or, on a different note, Eva Gabor and Eddie Albert sparring about stores and chores on Green Acres.

In truth, most of us want both adventure and a little luxury in our lives. And, especially on vacation, why can't we get exactly what we want? No reason at all. That's why Sunset scoured the West for bed-and-breakfast inns that offer unbeatable access to great hiking. At the same time, these inns know that even stalwart wilderness fans appreciate starting the day with a wonderfully prepared breakfast and ending it by sinking into a comfortable bed.

Each of these inns lies an easy stroll (or in some cases, a very short drive) from trails that offer some of the best hiking in the West. Each knows how to pamper guests. And they prepare such good breakfasts we knew we had to share their best recipes with you. After all, we can use some adventure and a bit of pampering when we return home, too.

RiverSong Inn, Estes Park, Colorado

On the edge of Rocky Mountain National Park in Estes Park, RiverSong Inn is the kind of hostelry you'd expect to find in Aspen or Vail, not in this modest little tourist town. A central inn and several guest houses cluster at the end of a private, unpaved road. All are elegantly detailed, with extra-deep whirlpool tubs, wood-burning stoves, and tall windows that look out on pines and the nearby mountains.

Every room has a theme. The Cowboy's Delight features collections of branding irons, barbed wire, and other Western memorabilia. More extra touches: plush slippers shaped like horses, and luxuriant plaid flannel robes.

Breakfast is served in a room the size of a small cafe. Socializing is generally done in a common room with a large fireplace, a huge sectional sofa, and pots of coffee and tea, plus an extensive display of Western folk art.

RiverSong's 27-acre grounds include a new beaver pond and a herd of deer that visits daily for apples provided by inn owners Gary and Sue Mansfield. The land makes for good hiking and, come winter, snowshoeing. For longer adventures, the trails of Rocky Mountain National Park are minutes away.

WHERE: Estes Park, 65 miles northwest of Denver.

CONTACT: (970) 586-4666.

RATES: $135 - $250. Two-night minimum; no children under 12.

SUGGESTED HIKES: Simplest option is to wander the inn's grounds. Within adjacent Rocky Mountain National Park, a good easy hike is the 6-mile loop past Cub Lake. Trailhead is near Moraine Park - also the site of a good museum. From here the trail runs through Elk Meadows (look for elks in spring and fall), then continues to the lake, where you'll find lily pads in an alpine marsh, rare in Colorado's dry mountains.

FYI: Rocky Mountain National Park; (970) 586-1206.

RiverSong Giddy-Up Grits

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: At RiverSong Inn, breakfast starts with Continental Divide Strawberries (berries topped with a mixture of equal parts sweetened whipped cream and plain yogurt), followed by hearty baked grits.

MAKES: 8 servings

1 pound bulk pork sausage 1 clove garlic, pressed or minced 3/4 teaspoon pepper About 1 teaspoon hot sauce 1 cup quick-cooking grits 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 2 large eggs 2 cups (1/2 lb.) shredded sharp cheddar cheese 1 can (7 oz.) diced green chilies 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper 1/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves

1. Crumble sausage into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat. Stir often until browned and crumbly, about 6 minutes. Drain off and discard fat. To sausage, add garlic, pepper, and hot sauce to taste. Set aside.

2. In a 2- to 3-quart pan, blend grits with 4 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring. Add butter. Cover pan; reduce heat to low. Stir often until grits are tender, 5 to 6 minutes.

3. In a large bowl, beat eggs to blend. Stirring, add cheese, chilies, sausage mixture, and grits. Pour mixture into a buttered shallow 9- by 13-inch baking dish or 2 1/2- to 3-quart casserole.

4. Bake, uncovered, in a 350 [degrees] oven until lightly browned, 40 to 45 minutes. Let stand about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with red bell pepper and cilantro. Cut into pieces and serve with a wide spatula.

Per serving: 331 cal., 60% (198 cal.) from fat; 16 g protein; 22 g fat (11 g sat.); 17 g carbo (1.4 g fiber); 734 mg sodium; 113 mg chol.

- Linda Lau Anusasananan

Across the Creek at Aravaipa Farms, Winkelman, Arizona

After several hours of hiking through Aravaipa Canyon, your boots or tennis shoes will have sluiced off enough creek water to irrigate the Sahara, and your head will spin trying to remember how many species of birds you've seen. This remote riparian wilderness area in southeastern Arizona hosts eagles and herons and other more rarely seen birds that congregate here for the year-round water.

If you wanted to rough it, you could camp near the trailhead. But since you don't, you can make the 5-mile drive back to Across the Creek at Aravaipa Farms.