Sleepless in San Miguel

Sunset, Oct, 1998 by David Lansing

While crimes against tourists have certainly risen in Mexico City and other specific areas of Mexico, San Miguel de Allende has not seen any corresponding increase. All the expatriates I talked with said they felt safer here than in their hometowns stateside. Petty crimes like pickpocketing and theft do occur, but violent crimes against tourists are almost unheard of. For more information about San Miguel, call the Mexican government's tourist information line, (800)446-3942. For information on art or Spanish language classes at Instituto Allende, call 011 52 (415) 20190. For other international calls, dial 011 52 (415) and the local five-digit phone number listed.

Attractions

LA PARROQUIA. Inspired by European Gothic cathedrals like Notre Dame and built by a self-trained Indian stonemason, this pink-and-tan parish church is the Eiffel Tower of San Miguel. Open 9-8 daily In the Jardin.

BELLAS ARTES. The town's cultural center is in the 18th-century Convento Real de la Concepcion, with a full-room mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros. Hernandez Macias 75; 20289.

MUSEO HISTORICO DE SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE. Birthplace and home of Mexican independence hero Ignacio Allende is a Spanish colonial residence next to La Parroquia. The museum focuses on local history, Allende, and the independence movement. Free; open 10-4 Tue-Sun. Luna de Allende 1; 22499.

MERCADO IGNACIO RAMIREZ. Indoor stalls full of fresh fruit, vegetables, and flowers near a craft market where Indian women pull needles from cactus paddles to embroider rugs. Open 7-6 daily. Near the Jardin.

ANTIQUES SHOPS. Hand-painted retablos and estate jewelry are available at a number of antiques stores around the Jardin. One is Casa de los Milagros at Hidalgo 4 (open 9:30-2, 3-7:30 Mon-Sat, 10-5 Sun; 20105).

Dining

BUGAMBILIA. Everyone's first pick when you ask "Where should we eat?" The lovely courtyard is matched by the terrific Mexican food, particularly the chiles en nogada - poblano chilies stuffed with ground beef and covered in a walnut sauce with pomegranate seeds. Open 12-11 daily Hidalgo 42; 20127.

EL PEGASO. Across from the post office. Makes a great pork shank with pineapple in a mild ancho chili sauce. Open 8:30 A.M.-10 P.M. Mon-Sat. Corregidora 6; 21351.

MAMA MIA. Not the area's best Italian food, but its location near the Jardin and its lantern-lit patio make it a popular spot. Open 8A.M.-1 A.M. daily Umaran 8; 22063.

RESTAURANTE LA PUERTECITA. Go Sunday for the elegant brunch or Thursday afternoon for the Tex-Mex barbecue. The margaritas may be the best in town. Open 8 A.M.-10 P.M. daily. in La Puertecita Boutique Hotel (address and phone below).

Lodging

Hotels are basic but cheap. B & Bs and small inns are a real bargain. Rooms can be hard to get during fiestas (including mid- to late September), High season is January and February.

LA PUERTECITA BOUTIQUE HOTEL. In the hills above town, one of San Miguel's best hotels features 24 rooms and two pools. From $120. Santo Domingo 75; 22250 or www.unisono.net.mx/lapuert.>