Along the Eel and through the redwoods; the North Coast Daylight is running again between Willits and Eureka

Sunset, May, 1989

The North Coast Daylight is running again between Willits and Eureka

The North Coast Daylight excursion run is back on track. Eureka Southern Railroad had a full season of successful runs in 1988 and plans to offer even more trips this year.

Since 1914, the tracks used by the Daylight have served as a vital link between California's north coast and the outside world, providing passage to market for the lumber so essential to this region's economy. Keeping the lifeline intact isn't cheap, however; maintaining the rails through the flood- and landslide-prone Eel River canyon costs more per mile than for any other track in the country.

That expense, coupled with competition from trucking on U.S. Highway 101, led Southern Pacific to abandon the northerly Eel River line in 1983 (it continues to operate the southern half of the original Northwestern Pacific Railroad line, between San Rafael and Willits). In 1984, the newly formed Eureka Southern revived freight service between Willits and Eureka.

Except for a brief attempt by another company to revive passenger service, Eureka Southern's bid is the first since 1971. This year, 15 round trips are scheduled from late May through October. Most are two-day weekend runs, but a few include a layover day in Eureka; one in early July stops over for a week.

Be forewarned: these rides are not a quick jaunt through the countryside. Passengers spend a whole day making their way slowly (average speed is about 15 mph) northward 150 miles from Willits to Eureka, and another day on the return leg. But those who can shift into low gear are rewarded by breathtaking views of an otherwise inaccessible wild river canyon, as well as a unique perspective on dense coastal redwood forests.

Along the river and through the redwoods

Trains depart from the Willits station at 8 A.M. on scheduled Saturdays. Almost immediately, views of wooded creek banks fill the wide windows of the former Shasta Daylight passenger cars. Fog may still hang low along the Eel River as the train begins its parallel route above it, but the mist usually burns off quickly, revealing long vistas up the boulder-strewn river.

Where the Eel's middle fork joins the main stem at Dos Rios (27 miles from Willits), the road that follows the river on its opposite side veers east, leaving the North Coast Daylight as the only form of motorized transportation through the next 60 miles of river canyon.

Scattered stands of oaks give way to majestic redwoods as the train approaches the confluence of the Eel and its south fork on the boundary of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. You'll soon see huge stacks of felled redwoods as you pass through the mill town of Scotia. All of the houses and other buildings you see here are owned by Pacific Lumber Company, which has come under considerable fire in recent years for its plans to harvest oldgrowth redwoods.

The track plays hide-and-seek with US. 101 for the remaining 29 miles to Eureka. Passengers disembark here for dinner and a good night's rest before the return trip. A shuttle bus meets the train to take you to your hotel; for lodging information, call the Eureka Chamber of Commerce at (800) 356-6381. For Willits lodging, call the town's chamber at (707) 459-4113.

Coach or parlor seating, a dining car lunch

The 1950s-vintage coach cars are plain but comfortable. They're not heated, so be sure to bring along a jacket or a warm sweater for the cool mornings. Seating in a more plushly appointed parlor car is available for an extra charge. Passengers suffering from cabin fever can repair to fresh air in the open vestibule at the end of each car.

On the way to and from Eureka, continental breakfast buffets are set up in the Ranch Car soon after the train pulls out. Later, passengers are served hot lunches (surprisingly good, considering the volume prepared) in shifts in a separate dining car.

Adult fares are $99 round trip, $75 one way; children (ages 2 through 12) ride for $49 and $35. Parlor car seating costs $160 and $110; children under 12 are not admitted. For reservations, write or call the North Coast Daylight ticket office, Box 3666, Eureka 95502; (707) 442-7705.

Riding the Skunk: Willits' other excursion train

The resumption of passenger service on the Eel River line has made Willits something of a mecca for historic train enthusiasts. Willits is also a terminus for California Western Railroad's Skunk line; Fort Bragg, 40 miles west on the Mendocino coast, is the other end of the line. Following the Noyo River through stands of towering redwoods, the ride takes just over 2 hours each way.

From June 17 through September 9, trains pulled by diesel locomotives leave out of the Willits station daily at 8:50, returning at 3:45. You can also begin a round-trip ride in Fort Bragg, leaving at 9:20. On Fridays and Saturdays, a steam locomotive pulls a train on half-day trips from Fort Bragg to Northspur, the line's halfway point. Fall through spring, round-trip and half-day runs leave only from Fort Bragg.