The surprise is a sweet spice - sweet spices used in lamb and pork recipes

THE SWEETER SPICES, such as allspice, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, needn't be limited to desserts and baked goods. When used in savory dishes, as in the following recipes, they add an exotic richness and depth of flavor.

Lamb Stew with

White Beans, Anise,

and Allspice

1 1/2 pounds boneless lamb stew meat, excess fat trimmed

1 large (about 10 oz.) onion, chopped

2 1/2 cups regular-strength beef broth

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 tablespoon grated orange peel

2 teaspoons anise seed

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

3 large (about 2.3 lb. total) carrots, peeled and cut diagonally into thin slices

3 cans (15 oz. each) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup water

3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro (coriander)

Fresh cilantro (coriander) sprigs

Place lamb in a 5- to 6- quart pan with onion and 1/4 cup water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat, then simmer 30 minutes. Uncover pan and boil over high heat until liquid evaporates, about 10 minutes. When meat sizzles, add 1/4 cup water; stir to release browned bits. When the liquid evaporates, repeat procedure once.

To pan, add broth, ginger, orange peel, anise, allspice, and cayenne; stir to free browned bits from pan bottom. Bring the mixture to a boil, then cover tightly and simmer until meat is very tender when pierced, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Add the carrots and simmer until carrots are tender when pierced, about 20 minutes longer.

Add beans to pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add cornstarch mixture; stir until stew returns to a boil. Mix in minced cilantro. Transfer stew to a serving dish. Garnish with fresh cilantro sprigs. Makes 6 servings.

Per serving: 502 cal.; 32 g protein; 25 g fat (11 g sat.); 35 g carbo.; 354 mg sodium; 80 mg chol.

Sweet-spiced

Shredded Pork

1 1/4 pounds boneless pork shoulder or butt, excess fat trimmed

1 large (about 10 oz.) onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 can (28 oz.) tomatoes, undrained

1 cup regular-strength beef broth

1 can (4 oz.) diced green chilies

1/4 cup raisins

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 cinnamon stick (about 2 1/2 in. long) or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon pepper

8 flour tortillas (6 to 8 in. wide)

Salt

Cut pork into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Place meat in a 4- to 5-quart pan with onion and garlic. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until meat and onion exude juices, 10 to 12 minutes. Uncover and stir often until liquid evaporates and meat and onion are browned, about 15 minutes.

To pan, add the tomatoes and their liquid, broth, green chilies, raisins, vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, and pepper. Stir to release browned bits from pan bottom. Cover pan and simmer until meat is very tender when pierced, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Uncover and, over high heat, boil mixture until excess liquid evaporates, about 10 minutes. Using two forks, coarsely shred meat.

If made ahead, cool, cover, and chill up to 2 days. To reheat, place mixture over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until hot throughout, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, wrap tortillas in foil; bake in a 350 [degrees] oven until warm, 15 to 20 minutes. (Or wrap in plastic wrap and cook in a microwave oven at full power -- 100 percent -- until warm, about 1 minute.)

Transfer meat to serving container. To eat, spoon mixture into warm tortillas. Season to taste with salt. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 637 cal.; 31 g protein; 37 g fat (12 g sat.) 49 g carbo.; 871 mg sodium; 102 mg chol.