A Chinese shortcut speeds these pastas - filled egg roll wrappers and gyoza skins

Sunset, Nov, 1991

PURCHASING EGG roll wrappers and gyoza skins gives you a shortcut when you make these filled main-dish pastas. A flour-and-water paste seals them securely.

Candy-Wrap Pasta

with Cheese and

Black Bean Sauce

8 ounces feta cheese 8 ounces part-skin ricotta cheese 1/2 cup firmly packed fresh cilantro (coriander) 2 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese 18 egg roll (spring roll) wrappers 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour mixed with 1/4 cup water Black bean sauce (recipe follows)

In a food processor or blender, smoothly whirl feta with ricotta, 1/3 cup cilantro, milk, and parmesan. Lay 1 egg roll wrapper flat. Place 1 heaping tablespoon cheese mixture in center along edge of 1 side (a long side if rectangular). Pat mixture into log shape about 3/4 inch wide and 1 1/2 inches long. With your finger, lightly rub flour paste along each side of filling to the opposite edge of wrapper (see photograph of left). Also rub paste along edge opposite filling.

Starting at edge with the cheese, gently roll up the wrapper and press edge to seal. Firmly squeeze dough together at both ends of the filling where flour paste is painted, making the pasta look like a candy twisted in paper. Lay pasta on lightly floured 12- by 15-inch baking sheets. Cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Repeat to use all filling. If made ahead, cover and chill up to 4 hours. Or freeze on pan until solid, then transfer to airtight containers to freeze up to 1 month.

Chop remaining cilantro; set aside.

In a deep 10- to 12-inch frying pan, bring about 2 inches water to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle boil. Carefully add about half the pasta to water and cook, uncovered, just until pasta is tender to bite, 2 to 3 minutes (5 to 6 if frozen). Lift out with a slotted spoon and lay in a single layer on a clean baking sheet; keep warm. Cook remaining pasta.

Quickly divide sauce among 6 rimmed plates; spread it in an even layer to rims. Arrange pasta equally on plates; sprinke with chopped cilantro. Serves 6.

Per serving: 474 cal.; 25 g protein; 14 g fat (9 g sat.); 48 g carbo.; 827 mg sodium; 52 mg chol.

Black bean sauce. In an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir often 1 tablespoon butter or margarine and 1 small, chopped onion until onion is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Put onion in a food processor or blender with 1 can (about 15 oz.) black beans and liquid, and 1 cup regular-strength chicken broth. Whirl until very smooth. Pour into a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan; add salt and pepper to taste. If made ahead, cover and chill up until next day. Stir over medium heat until hot; use hot.

Agnolotti with Shrimp

and Avocado

Pickled scallions are sold in Asian markets. Round gyoza skins make agnolotti; square won ton skins make raviolini.

3/4 pound shelled, cooked tiny shrimp 1/2 cup pickled scallions, minced 1/4 cup minced green onion 2 tablespoons grated lemon peel About 5 dozen gyoza (potsticker) or won ton skins 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour mixed with 1/4 cup water 1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter or margarine 1/3 cup lemon juice 3 small (about 1 1/4 lb. total) firm-ripe avocados Lemon wedges

In a bowl, mix together shrimp, scallions, 2 tablespoons green onion, and lemom peel. Lay 1 gyoza skin flat. Place about 1 teaspoon shrimp mixture in the center. With your finger, lightly brush flour paste around the edge of half the wrapper. Fold plain side over filling and press edges together firmly to seal. Lay pasta on lightly floured 12- by 15-inch baking sheets and cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Repeat until all filling is used, placing filled wrappers slightly apart. If made ahead, chill up to 4 hours.

In a 5- to 6-quart pan, bring 3 quarts water to a boil over high heat. While water heats, melt butter (in microwave oven or over direct heat) with 1/4 cup lemon juice. Pit, peel, and halve or slice avocados; sprinkle with remaining lemon juice.

Add pasta to boiling water and cook, uncovered, until just tender to bite, about 2 minutes. Gently drain pasta, then return to pan and place over low heat. At once, add lemon butter and mix gently. Divide pasta among 6 dinner plates. Sprinkle with remaining onion. Place an avocado half (or slices) on each plate. Offer lemon wedges to squeeze onto pasta. Serves 6.

Per serving: 428 cal.; 22 g protein; 20 g fat (6.6 g sat.); 43 g carbo.; 415 mg sodium; 131 mg chol.