Is it candy or ice cream?

Sunset, May, 1992 by Elaine Johnson

ICE CREAM IN INDIA, called kulfi, is almost a candy. Like many Indian desserts, it's based on milk and sugar concentrated by boiling. This intense liquid gives kulfi a delicate caramelized flavor and a smooth, taffylike texture. Flavorings such as cardamom, saffron, and pistachio add to the richness and make kulfi a dessert to savor in small portions.

Indians typically buy kulfi in sweetshops, but it's easy to make at home, and you don't need an ice cream maker to do it. Just stir the flavoring into the boiled milk and sugar, then freeze the mixture in paper cups or homemade paper cones.

Cardamom Kulfi Pops

1-1/2 quarts whole milk 1/3 cup sugar 3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 8 paper cups (3-oz. size); or cooking parchment or waxed paper 8 ice cream sticks (optional)

In a 6- to 8-quart pan over high heat, stir milk, sugar, and cardamom until simmering. Over medium-high heat, boil until reduced to 2 cups, 25 to 35 minutes, stirring often; slide pan partially off heat if milk threatens to boil over. Let cool; to speed cooling, set pan in ice water.

Set paper cups in a rimmed pan. Or, to make cones, cut 8 pieces of parchment or waxed paper into 7-1/2-inch squares. Fold each piece in half to make a triangle. With long edge toward you, bring 1 of the 45 [degrees] angles to the top of triangle, then roll toward other angle. To close hole at bottom, starting from the top, press 1 inside sheet to the opposite side. Tape the cone in a few places to hold it together. Support each cone, pointed end down, in a cup slightly taller than the cone; set cups in a rimmed pan.

Divide milk mixture among cups or cones. Freeze until kulfi is thick but not hard, 1 to 1-1/2 hours; then, if desired, push an ice cream stick into each container. Freeze until firm, about 2 hours longer. To eat, peel off paper. To store, seal kulfi (still in cups or cones) in a large plastic bag; freeze for up to 2 weeks. Serves 8. Per serving: 144 cal.; 6 g protein; 6.1 g fat (3.8 g sat.); 17 g carbo.; 90 mg sodium; 26 mg chol.

Saffron Kulfi Pops

Follow directions for cardamom kulfi pops (recipe precedes) but omit cardamom. Place 1/32 teaspoon powdered saffron or 1/8 teaspoon saffron threads in a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon boiling water, stir, and let stand for 5 minutes. Break up threads with a spoon. Scrape mixture into warm reduced milk mixture. Serves 8.

Per serving: 143 cal.; 6 g protein; 6.1 g fat (3.8 g sat.); 17 g carbo.; 90 mg sodium; 26 mg chol.

Pistachio Kulfi Pops

Follow directions for cardamom kulfi pops (recipe precedes), but omit cardamom. Coarsely chop 1/2 cup shelled roasted pistachios; stir into cooled reduced milk mixture. Serves 8.

Per serving: 190 cal.; 7.7 g protein; 10 g fat (4.3 g sat.); 19 g carbo.; 90 mg sodium; 26 mg chol.