Showpiece side dishes

Sunset, Nov, 1992 by Linda Lau Anusasananan, Christine Weber

TRIM COOKING PROCEDURES KEEP THESE VEGETABLE SHOWPIECES and dressings lean enough to provide wholesome balance for the roasts they accompany. Because tender vegetables often require last-minute attention--when that attention could be well used elsewhere--we've built in make-ahead steps, and highlighted them with asterisks so you can spot them easily.

The dressings are flavorful combinations of grains and nuts, plus one with sourdough bread. To comply with current food safety recommendations, dressings cook in casseroles rather than in the bird. We think the flavorful gravy will adequately compensate those who love stuffing from the turkey. If you do stuff the bird, be sure to do so just before it goes into the oven, then remove the dressing while it's still hot.

Green Pea Pods with Red Onions

1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon mustard seed 1 teaspoon cumin seed 2 large (about 1 lb. total) red onions, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon sugar 2 pounds edible-pod peas, ends and strings removed Salt

In a 5- to 6-quart pan, bring about 1 quart water to a boil on high heat. Add 5 tablespoons vinegar, mustard seed, cumin seed, and onions. Cook just until onions are limp, about 2 minutes. Drain in a fine strainer. Add onion-seed mixture to remaining vinegar and sugar. (*If cooking ahead, cover and chill, stirring occasionally, up to a day.)

Rinse pan well and fill with about 2 1/2 quarts water. Cover and bring to a boil on high heat. Add peas and cook, uncovered, just until brighter green, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain. Arrange peas in a shallow 3- to 4-quart casserole. (*If cooking ahead, immerse peas in ice water until cold, then drain. Arrange in a casserole, cover, and hold at room temperature up to 6 hours or chill up to a day.)

Serve from cold to room temperature. Just before serving, spoon onions onto peas; add salt to taste. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Per serving: 60 cal. (6 percent from fat); 3.3 g protein; 0.4 g fat (0 g sat.); 12 g carbo.; 8.6 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Broccoli with Sherry-glazed Onions

2 pounds broccoli 1 package (1 lb.) frozen petite whole onions, thawed 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 cup dry sherry or dry madeira 1 cup regular-strength chicken broth 1/4 cup sherry vinegar or cider vinegar 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar 2 tablespoons currants 1 tablespoon cornstarch Salt

Trim tough ends off broccoli. If skin on stalks is tough, peel. Cut broccoli into about 3-inch lengths. Cut stalks lengthwise to make 1/3-inch-thick slices. Leave flowerets whole or cut in half if thicker than 1 1/2 inches.

Fill a 5- to 6-quart pan with 2 1/2 to 3 quarts water; cover and bring to a boil on high heat. Add broccoli and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, just until barely tender when pierced, 5 to 6 minutes; drain. Arrange on a platter or in a shallow 3- to 4-quart casserole. (*If making ahead, immerse in ice water until cool; drain. Arrange on platter, cover, and hold at room temperature up to 6 hours or chill up to a day.)

Drain pan and add onions and oil. Cook over high heat, shaking pan often, until onions brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove onions. (*If browning ahead, cover and chill up to a day.)

To pan, add sherry, broth, vinegar, sugar, and currants. Boil rapidly, uncovered, until reduced to 1 1/3 cups, 6 to 8 minutes. Mix cornstarch with 1/4 cup water. Stir into pan; bring sauce to a boil. (*If assembling ahead, cool, cover, and chill up to a day.)

To serve dish warm or at room temperature, combine hot sauce and onions and pour over broccoli. (*To reheat sauce, cook over medium heat, stirring, until hot. *To reheat broccoli in a microwave oven, cover with microwave-safe plastic wrap and cook at full power--100 percent--until hot, 4 to 7 minutes; rotate casserole 1/2 turn every 2 minutes. *To reheat broccoli in a conventional oven, cover with foil and bake at 400|degrees~ until hot, 20 to 30 minutes.) Add salt to taste. Serves 8 to 10.

Per serving: 80 cal. (9 percent from fat); 2.4 g protein; 0.8 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 17 g carbo.; 29 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Sweet Potato--Fennel Gratin

3 large (3- to 4-in.-wide) heads fennel 2 large (about 1 lb. total) onions, chopped 1 teaspoon fennel seed About 4 1/2 cups regular-strength chicken broth 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/2 cup whipping cream 2 3/4 pounds (about 4 medium-size) sweet potatoes or yams 1 1/4 cups (5 oz.) shredded reduced-fat or regular jarlsberg cheese Salt and pepper

Trim stems from fennel; reserve some of the feathery green leaves for garnish. (*If working ahead, rinse, wrap in towels, enclose in a plastic bag, and chill up to a day.) Discard stems. Trim off discolored parts of fennel. Finely chop heads.

In a 5- to 6-quart pan, combine chopped fennel, onions, fennel seed, and 1/3 cup broth. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates and browned bits stick in pan, about 15 minutes. Deglaze by adding 1/4 cup broth and stirring browned bits free; cook until browned again. Repeat deglazing step 2 or 3 more times, until vegetables are a rich brown, adding about 1/2 cup broth total. Reduce heat to low. Mix flour and nutmeg with vegetables, then stir in 3 1/2 cups broth and cream. Stir over medium heat until mixture boils, 4 to 5 minutes.