Head over wheels in Paso Robles - Great Western Bicycle Rally

Sunset, May, 1994 by Sarah Lifton

Attend the Great Western Bicycle Rally, or ride into the hills on your own

ONCE A YEAR, ON Memorial Day weekend, more than 2,000 bicyclists would swear it's possible to buy their way into heaven. The cost is minimal, and nirvana looks suspiciously like the Mid-State Fairgrounds in Paso Robles, California. But May 27 through 30, the Great Western Bicycle Rally, a large, friendly, family-oriented extravaganza dedicated to recreational cycling, transforms the fairgrounds and the surrounding countryside into a pedaler's paradise.

Laverne and Ralph Boethling, avid Southern California cyclists, have chaired the rally since the late 1970s. Their event provides rallygoers with everything they need for a weekend of perfect riding (except a bike and a weather guarantee). Participants receive route slips for 25 rides that vary in distance from 3 to 100 miles and lead to sweeping panoramas, down secluded country lanes, and into the occasional winery. The registration fee of $12 ($25 for families) also includes admission to the weekend's seemingly endless succession of cycling-related activities, including a Concours D'Elegance featuring antique and avant-garde bicycles.

Although many rallygoers find accommodations in area motels, about half camp on the fairgrounds. Excellent meals are available at Touch of Paso (1414 Pine Street; 805/238-4140) and The Bakery Works Cafe (1646 Spring Street; 239-1070) for breakfast and lunch, and Berardis (1202 Pine; 238-1330) for lunch and dinner.

Rally veterans arrive in Paso Robles prepared for almost any riding condition. Inland temperatures can soar into the upper 90s, while cold and fog may greet cyclists riding to the coast. Rain occasionally puts in an appearance, and a stiff wind kicks up most afternoons. The rural setting means a relative dearth of services by urban standards, so it is imperative to carry enough water and a snack, especially if it's hot, as well as a spare tube, a pump, and a patch kit.

THREE TESTED RIDES

The following routes have been pleasing rallygoers for 15 years. All begin and end at the fairgrounds, Riverside Avenue and 24th Street. Helmets are required on all rides.

Sheep Farm Frolic. This easy 17-mile, half-day ride is ideal for families with young children. From the fairgrounds, head south on Riverside and turn left on 13th Street. Cross the bridge, then turn left on N. River Road, a scenic route that parallels the Salinas River. At the Y, continue left on N. River Road, which curves right into Wellsona Road. Turn right again on Buena Vista Drive, a pretty byway that meanders past farms, ranches, and wineries. A right turn on Experimental Station Road will bring you face to face with a flock of sheep (please don't disturb them). Continue until you reach the junction with N. River Road, and turn left. Turn right on Creston Road and right at Riverside Avenue, and you're back at the fairgrounds.

Wino Boogie (with Big Boozer Option). Bicycling and wineries make for a heady brew on this beautiful, sometimes hilly 19- to 28- mile ride. Head south on Riverside and turn right on 13th Street, then left on Vine Street; cross State Highway 46 into Theater Drive. Turn left on main Street and right on Old County Road. At the T, turn right onto Vineyard Drive, an inviting road shaded intermittently by oaks. At the 7 1/2-mile point, after a long climb, you'll find Pesenti Winery; Mastantuono Winery sits at the junction of State 46.

You can return to Paso Robles at this point (by turning right on State 46 and continuing 4 1/2 miles to S. Vine Street, where you'll turn left, then right on 13th Street to Riverside), or you can cross State 46 and embark on the Big Boozer Option, which takes you through even lovelier territory.

To join the ranks of Big Boozers, cross State 46 and turn left on Jack Creek Road, a country lane lined with oaks and meadows. Turn right at State 46, and prepare for some spectacular vistas. Turn right on the second York Mountain Road (it's a loop), a twisty, shaded byway that will take you to historic York Mountain Winery, established in 1882. A long, winding downhill follows, on a road badly in need of resurfacing, so be careful. At the T, turn left on State 46 and coast most of the 7 miles back to town. Turn left on S. Vine Street, fight on 13th Street, and left on Riverside Avenue to return to the fairgrounds.

Around the Hills to Adelaida. One of the rally's all-time favorite rides, this hilly but beautiful 33-mile circuit takes you through shaded glens and past a historic cemetery, a schoolhouse, and a monolithic rock complete with eagle aerie. Head south on Riverside Avenue, turn right on 13th Street, left on Vine, and right on State 46. Three miles down the road, just past Sycamore Farms, turn right on Oak-dale Road (the sign is small).

You'll encounter some hills over the next 2 miles. Turn right on Vineyard Drive and stay on this road for nearly 8 1/2 miles, riding up and down through tunnels of trees. Turn left at Adelaida Road and fight at Klau Mine Road, then right at the Y a mile later, onto what becomes Chimney Rock Road. Continue straight into County Road G14, which becomes Nacimiento Lake Road. You can't miss Chimney Rock, 1,116 feet high, thrusting out of a hillside. If you're lucky, you might spot an eagle or two. Continue on Nacimiento Lake Road (and be prepared for a couple of long climbs). Follow the road back into Paso Robles, and turn right on Riverside Avenue to the fairgrounds.