Natives and newcomers revive Gold Country traditions - recipes - Cover Story

Sunset, Nov, 1994 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson

Yams, cranberries, and stuffing grace the table in new ways

A long every rolling mad in the California foothills, trees are ablaze with brightly colored leaves of burnt red and squash yellow. Leslie Jo and Brent Parsons fell in love with this beauty, and moved to Sutter Creek in California's Gold Country in 1989. Brent bought an art gallery, and Leslie Jo found an old house with porches and a backyard creek--even ducks.

In the front yard, a fall garden with broccoli, cauliflower, cucumbers, brussels sprouts, and herbs is bordered by a picket fence. Leslie Jo loves to cook, and she bakes sourdough bread twice a week in a clay cloche that she swears makes the best crust ever. Her sourdough bread, an Amador County Fair prizewinner, is the base for her artichoke-parmesan sour-dough stuffing. But the stuffing tastes terrific with purchased sourdough bread as well.

Another family favorite is the cranberry-Waldorf molded salad, a Thanksgiving tradition from Leslie Jo's great-grandmother that's been updated with a low-fat yogurt topping and a reduction in sugar. Says Leslie Jo about the salad, "Brent would die if I forgot it." For their Thanksgiving feast, she serves beans or another vegetable with a light citrus sauce. Here she shares two options: orange-sherry and lemon-dill.

Artichoke-Parmesan Sourdough Stuffing

2 pounds sourdough bread (about 2 loaves), cut into 3/4- to 1-inch cubes (8 quarts total) 3 tablespoons butter or margarine 2 large (about 1 1/4 lb, total) onions, chopped 1 pound mushrooms, rinsed and sliced 2 cups chopped celery 1/4 cup (about 12 cloves) minced garlic 3 1/2 cups regular-strength chicken broth 4 jars (6 oz. each) marinated artichoke hearts, drained 1 cup grated parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon poultry seasoning 1 tablespoon minced fresh or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary 3/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper 2 large eggs, beaten

Spread bread cubes in a single layer on 12- by 15-inch baking sheets (you'll need 4 sheets, or do in sequence). Toast in a 350[degrees] oven until very crisp and golden brown, about 25 minutes; shake cubes after 15 minutes and switch pan positions. (If making ahead, cool cubes and store airtight for up to 2 days.)

In a 12-inch frying pan or 6- to 8-quart pan, melt butter over medium heat; add onions, mushrooms, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are soft and tinged golden brown, about 25 minutes. To release brown bits from bottom of pan, add 1/2 cup broth; using a wooden spoon, scrape all brown bits from pan bottom. In a large bowl, mix cooked vegetables with toasted bread cubes, artichoke hearts, cheese, poultry seasoning, rosemary, and salt and pepper. Whisk together remaining broth and eggs, and pour over vegetable-bread mixture; stir until ingredients are well coated.

Use to stuff an 18- to 22-pound turkey, roasting turkey according to chart instructions on page 138, adding 30 to 50 minutes roasting time because bird is stuffed. Bake any remaining stuffing mixture in a 2-quart baking dish alongside turkey during the last 45 minutes of roasting time. Or bake stuffing in a 4 1/2 to 5-quart baking dish in a 350[degrees] oven for 30 minutes, covered, and 20 minutes more uncovered. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

Per serving: 281 cal. (31 percent from fat); 11 g protein; 9.8 g fat (3.4 g sat.); 39 g carbo.: 818 mg sodium: 36 mg chol.

Cranberry-Waldorf Molded Salad

1 small package (3 oz.) lemon-flavor gelatin 2 cups boiling water 2 cups fresh cranberries 1 large (about 3/4 lb.) orange, peeled and seeded 1 large (about 1/2 lb.) red apple, cored 1 cup chopped celery 1/2 cup chopped walnuts or almonds Lettuce leaves, rinsed and crisped (optional) Creamy yogurt dressing (recipe follows)

Mix gelatin with boiling water, stirring until dissolved; chill until thick, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, coarsely chop cranberries; chop orange and apple into about 1/4-inch cubes. Mix fruit with thickened gelatin; add celery and nuts. Spoon into a 5- to 6-cup mold or fancy glass bowl. Chill for at least 4 hours or until the next day.

To remove salad from mold, dip mold in warm water and wait until salad breaks away from side of mold when gently shaken, about 2 minutes. Invert serving platter on top of mold. Holding tightly together, flip mold over onto platter; remove mold. Tuck lettuce leaves under edge of salad. Or serve salad directly from fancy bowl. Offer yogurt dressing to add as desired. Serves 8.

Per serving: 167 cal. (27 percent from fat); 4 g protein; 5 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 29 g carbo; 63 mg sodium; 0.6 mg chol.

Creamy yogurt dressing. Combine 1 cup nonfat unflavored yogurt, 2 tablespoons honey, and 1 tablespoon grated orange peel. Chill until ready to use, up to 2 days.

Citrus-sauced Green Beans

Orange-sherry sauce or lemon-dill sauce (recipes follow)

About 1 1/2 pounds green beans, rinsed, ends snapped

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted, or fresh dill sprigs or fennel tops

Make orange-sherry or lemon-dill sauce. In a 4- to 5-quart pan, bring about 2 quarts water to a boil over high heat. Add beans, reduce heat, and simmer until beans are bright green and just tender to bite, about 6 minutes. Drain; place on a serving dish.