Natives and newcomers revive Gold Country traditions - recipes - Cover Story

Sunset, Nov, 1994 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson

Pour warm orange-sherry sauce over beans and top with toasted almonds; or pour warm lemon-dill sauce over beans and garnish with fresh dill sprigs or fennel tops. Serves 6 to 8.

Per serving: 56 cal. (3 percent from fat); 1.6 g protein; 0.2 g fat (0 g sat.); 12 g carbo.; 41 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Orange-sherry sauce.

In a 1- to 2-quart pan over medium heat, combine 3/4 cup orange juice, 3 tablespoons cream sherry, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch. Cook, stirring often, until sauce is just bubbling, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; cover and keep warm.

Lemon-dill sauce. In a 1-to 2-quart pan over medium heat, combine 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/4 cup regular-strength vegetable broth, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch. Cook, stirring often, until sauce is just bubbling, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill or fresh fennel tops; cover and keep warm.

A zesty lemon-orange yam puff

Barbara Toma, a fifth-generation Italian-American, grew up in Sutter Creek, where her grandparents had a dairy that at one time delivered to half the town. On Thanksgiving, she always serves a family favorite, whipped yams with orange and lemon peel and juice.

Yam Puff

4 pounds (about 8 medium size) yams 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar About 3 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted 2 teaspoons each grated orange and lemon peel 1/4 cup orange juice 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon salt

In a 6- to 8-quart pan, bring about 3 quarts water to a boil over high heat. Add yams, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until yams are tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. Drain and cool.

When yams are cool enough to touch, peel them and cut into quarters. In a large bowl, mash yams until smooth. Add brown sugar, 2 tablespoons of the butter, the orange and lemon peel, orange and lemon juices, and salt. With an electric mixer, beat yam mixture until light and fluffy. Scrape the mixture into a buttered 2- to 2 1/2-quart or 8- by 10-inch baking dish. (If making ahead, cover and chill up to 2 days.)

Bake yam puff in a 350[degrees] oven until warm throughout and peaks are tinged brown, about 25 minutes (if chilled, allow about 15 more minutes). If desired, drizzle baked puff with remaining melted butter. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Per serving: 250 cal. (9 percent from fat); 2.5 g protein; 2.6 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 55 g carbo.; 152 mg sodium; 6.2 mg chol.

A glass of wine, and cookies, at Greenstone Winery

Eight miles west of Sutter Creek, near Ione, Greenstone Winery is tucked gently between grapevine-covered bluffs. Its name derives from the green stone found in the Sierra foothills. Thirteen years ago, Stan Van Spanje and Durward Fowler moved their families from Southern California to start a new life in the country, making wine. One of their favorites is a port made from grapes from a 100-year-old vineyard. Alongside, they enjoy Zinfandel port balls, a delicious, easy cookie that a close friend, June Copper, developed with their Zinfandel port in mind.