Back to the land in eastern Washington - recipes

Sunset, Nov, 1994 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

At the Harder ranch, it's elegant beef; at the Kiona family winery, a barbecued steelhead trout

In the high desert of eastern Washington known as the Channel Scablands, rough boulders punctuate the rugged basalt landscape. Cattle ranchers Joan and Jake Harder live on land that Jake's grandfather settled in 1873.

On Thanksgiving, ranch activities-feeding the calves, hunting birds, and going for hayrides--give city guests a bit of country flavor. If it's cold enough--and it often is--kids skate on frozen ponds nearby.

For the big holiday meal, guests sit down to an elegant table covered with pressed autumn leaves, fine china, crystal, and silver. "Although we dress casual for the ranch, we like to set a formal dinner," says Joan.

Foods from the ranch and the area highlight the menu. It's not surprising that, as cattle ranchers, they prefer beef over turkey for their feast. They coat a tenderloin with spices, roast it, and serve it with a sauce made from Washington's dried sour cherries. Wild and long-grain rice studded with local apples and nuts complements the cherry sauce. Traditional choices reign for dessert: pumpkin and apple pies and a family favorite, a molded cream with refreshing cranberry sauce.

Beef Tenderloin with Cabernet-Cherry Sauce

Spice mixture (recipe follows)

1 trimmed and tied center-cut beef tenderloin (about 5 lb.) 3 cups regular-strength beef broth 1 1/2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon 1 1/2 cups dried tart cherries, such as Montmorency 2 1/2 tablespoons red currant jelly 2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 1/4 cup water Thin orange slices (optional) Salt and pepper

Rub spice mixture over beef. Set beef in a 10- by 15-inch roasting pan. Roast in a 450[degrees] oven until a thermometer inserted in the center of the thickest part of the meat registers 135[degrees] for rare to medium-rare, 35 to 40 minutes, or 140[degrees] for medium, about 50 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine 2 cups broth, wine, cherries, and jelly; bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and simmer over low heat until cherries soften, 15 to 20 minutes.

When done, transfer roast to a warm platter. Snip strings free; remove. Let roast stand in a warm place for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, add remaining 1 cup broth to roasting pan; stir over medium heat to scrape browned bits free. Pour broth mixture into cherry mixture; bring to a boil. Add cornstarch mixture, and stir until sauce boils. Pour into a bowl.

Garnish beef with orange slices. Cut roast into thick or thin slices as desired: serve with sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Per serving: 388 cal. (35 percent from fat); 40 g protein; 15 g fat (5.6 g sat.); 18 g carbo.; 108 mg sodium; 117 mg chol.

Spice mixture. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoons each whole black pepper, dried thyme leaves, and grated orange peel, 1/2 teaspoon each dried oregano leaves and whole coriander, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice, and 4 cloves garlic, pressed or minced.

Pilaf Dressing with Fruits and Nuts

1/2 cup chopped walnuts or almonds 1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1 large (about 1/2 lb.) onion, chopped 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 quart regular-strength chicken broth 2 cups apple juice 2 cups wild rice, rinsed 1 1/2 cups long-grain white rice 1/3 cup raisins 1 large (about 1/2 lb.) Red Delicious apple, cored and diced Chopped parsley or apple slices dipped in lemon juice

In a 5- to 6-quart pan, stir nuts over medium-low heat until toasted, about 7 minutes. Remove from pan.

Add butter and chopped onion; stir over medium-high heat until onion is tinged with brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in coriander. Add broth and juice; bring to a boil. Add wild rice; cover and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes. Stir in white rice; cover and cook over low heat until rice is tender to bite, about 20 minutes.

(If making ahead, cool, cover, and chill until next day. Reheat, covered, over low heat, adding about 3/4 cup water, until hot. Or heat, covered, in a microwave-safe bowl in a microwave oven on full power [100 percent] for 3 minutes. Stir and continue heating, stirring every minute, adding a little water if too dry, until hot.)

Shortly before serving, stir raisins, apple, and nuts into rice. Garnish with parsley or apple slices. Makes about 4 quarts, 10 to 12 servings.

Per serving: 279 cal. (17 percent from fat); 7.4 g protein; 5.1 g fat (1.1 g sat.); 52 g carbo.; 33 mg sodium; 2.6 mg chol.

Russian Cream with Cranberries

1 1/3 cups sugar 2 envelopes unflavored gelatin 1 1/2 cups water 2 cups milk or half-and-half 2 cups nonfat unflavored yogurt or nonfat or regular sour cream 2 teaspoons vanilla Fresh cranberries (optional) Poached cranberries (recipe follows)

In a 3- to 4-quart pan, mix sugar and gelatin. Stir in water; let stand for about 5 minutes to soften gelatin. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly, until sugar and gelatin dissolve. Remove from heat; stir in milk. Gradually whisk yogurt and vanilla into the hot gelatin mixture. Pour mixture into an 8- to 10-cup metal mold. Cover and chill until set, at least 5 hours or until next day.