A grand Thanksgiving out - or in - dining - includes recipes from recommended restaurants - Special Sunset Holiday Section

Sunset, Nov, 1995 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson, Christine Weber Hale, Elaine Johnson

Let Western restaurants prepare your feast or try their distinctly regional recipes at home

The family has gathered, dinner looks and you haven't cooked a thing. What's more, nobody gets left with the dirty dishes. If this is your idea of a perfect Thanksgiving, you're not alone. An increasing number of hotels, resorts, and restaurants are preparing dinner for home cooks who want a break. We joined their ranks last year and discovered innovative menu choices, regional twists on traditional favorites, and destinations worth planning a weekend around.

Because Thanksgiving away from home is growing in popularity, you need to make reservations as far ahead as possible (see page 119). If your top choices are already booked, start planning for next year. In the meantime, enjoy these restaurants' memorable regional recipes at home.

THE LARK CREEK INN Larkspur, California

Imagine you have a grandmother who's a wonderful cook and lives in an elegant Victorian house with a huge dining room tucked into a redwood grove. That almost describes Thanksgiving at the Lark Creek Inn, except that chef Bradley Ogden's homestyle cooking seems modern. One other difference: most grandmothers don't serve 600 people.

The four-course dinner begins with a basket of fresh-baked rolls at your table and an American-style antipasto. For an entree, most diners choose turkey from the oak-burning oven, with traditional trimmings like cranberry sauce and candied yams. But you can try an entree like cedar-planked salmon with corn souffle spoon bread or steak with skillet cheddar potatoes. Dessert offers multiple choices, too, from pumpkin pie with vanilla bean whipped cream to lighter fruit ices.

Cranberry Sauce

Cooking time: About 15 minutes

Prep time: About 5 minutes

Makes: 3 1/2 cups, 14 servings

6 cups (2 bags, 12 oz. each) fresh or frozen cranberries 2/3 cup granulated sugar 2/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar 1/2 cup orange juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon vanilla

1. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, bring cranberries, granulated and brown sugars, orange and lemon juices, and cinnamon to simmering. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until cranberries are tender when pierced, 8 to 10 minutes.

2. Stir in vanilla; let cool. Serve, or chill airtight up to 1 week.

Per serving: 108 cal., 0.8% (0.9 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 27 g carbo.; 5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Candied Yams

Cooking time: About 65 minutes

Prep time: About 20 minutes

Makes: 8 servings

1/3 cup apple juice

3 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar

3 tablespoons maple syrup

2 tablespoons dark molasses

1/8 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and allspice

3 pounds yams or sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick diagonal slices

Salt and pepper

1. In a rimmed 10- by 15-inch baking pan, combine apple juice, brown sugar, syrup, molasses, cinnamon, and allspice. Turn yams in mixture to coat, then arrange in a single layer, overlapping slightly.

2. Cover tightly and bake in a 375 [degrees] oven 20 minutes. Turn yams over, then continue to bake, covered, until very tender when pierced, about 25 minutes longer.

3. Uncover yams and bake 15 minutes. Turn yams over and bake until only a thin layer of syrup remains in bottom of pan, about 5 minutes longer.

4. Arrange yams on a serving dish; scrape syrup from pan and drizzle over yams. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Per serving: 228 cal., 1.2% (2.7 cal.) from fat; 2.2 g protein; 0.3 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 55 g carbo.; 19 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Overnight Soft Herb Rolls

Cooking time: About 30 minutes

Prep time: About 30 minutes, plus about 45 minutes for rising

Notes: Start these rolls 24 hours ahead, or knead and bake them all in one day.

Makes: 12 rolls

1 package active dry yeast

1/4 cup cool (70 [degrees]) water

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon each minced fresh parsley, dill, chives, and rosemary leaves (or use fresh parsley and substitute I teaspoon dried herb for each of the others)

2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

1 large egg

1 cup milk or half-and-half

3 1/2 to 3 3/4 cups bread flour or all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon lightly beaten egg

1. In a large bowl, sprinkle yeast over water. Let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. Stir in sugar, salt, parsley, dill, chives, rosemary, butter, whole egg, and milk, then stir in 3 1/4 cups flour until moistened.

2. Scrape dough onto a lightly floured board; knead until smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky, 12 to 15 minutes. Add flour as required to prevent sticking.

3. Shape dough into 12 equal balls; evenly space in a buttered 9- by 13-inch pan. Let rise as directed in next step or, if making ahead, wrap airtight and chill up to 24 hours, then let rise.

4. Place pan in a warm place; let dough rise until double, 45 to 60 minutes. Brush with beaten egg; bake in a 350 [degrees] oven until deep golden, 25 to 30 minutes.

Per roll: 199 cal., 19% (37 cal.) from fat; 6.4 g protein; 4.1 g fat (2 g sat.); 33 g carbo.; 224 mg sodium; 32 mg chol.

Apple Cider Sherbet