Still the place … Salt Lake City - Utah - includes related articles

Sunset, May, 1996 by Peter Fish

Cultural landmarks elsewhere downtown include two historic theaters. The Italian Renaissance Capitol Theatre (50 West 200 South; 323-6800) has been restored to house Ballet West, the Utah Opera Company, and a couple of dance companies. The former Orpheum is now the church's Promised Valley Playhouse (132 S. State; 364-5696). Newer venues include sleek Maurice Abravanel Hall (123 W. South Temple; 533-6683), home to the Utah Symphony. Next door stands the Salt Lake Art Center (20 S. West Temple; 328-4201), which features contemporary art.

If you'd rather not walk all those long blocks around town, you have your choice of two trolley tours. The free, church-sponsored Pioneer Trolley runs around Temple Square from Beehive House to the Museum of Church History and Art. During the summer, the Utah Transit Authority's Centennial Discovery Trolley (287-4636) runs from the square to the University of Utah and other points of interest.

Nonstudents have plenty of good reasons to visit the handsome university, which overlooks the city. Jurassic Utah was a dinosaur playground, and Utah Museum of Natural History (Presidents Circle on the university campus; 581-6927) has an excellent collection of old bones.

* SALT LAKE LODGINGS

The big chain hotels - Marriott, Hilton, Doubletree - are all south and west of Temple Square. Downtown also holds two historic hotels. The church-owned The Inn at Temple Square (71 W. South Temple; 800/843-4668; from $79) lies across the street from the Temple. Don't expect to be able to buy a drink here, but room rates include a substantial breakfast. Salt Lake's oldest hostelry is the nicely restored Peery Hotel (110 West 300 South; 521-4300; from $89) on the fringes of the old industrial district.

Bed-and-breakfast choices include the posh Brigham Street Inn (1135 E. South Temple; 364-4461; from $115), built when this stretch of South Temple was Salt Lake's most distinguished address. Also appealing are the Anton Boxrud Bed and Breakfast (57 South 600 East; 363-8035; from $69) and the 1903 Saltair Bed and Breakfast (164 South 900 East; 800/733-8184; from $70).

* SALT LAKE CITY EATS

The Metropolitan (173 W. Broadway; 364-3472) is so understated you won't even find a sign over the entrance to this refurbished warehouse downtown. It's the place to go if you're in the mood for wood-fired pheasant with pheasant ravioli ($25). For an extra $30, add a few slivers of imported white truffles.

Despite its staid reputation, Salt Lake is now home to several great microbreweries, including Fuggles (375 West 200 South; 363-7000). Under two massive skylights that open in good weather, brick ovens fill the spacious dining room with the smell of rotisserie chicken and baking bread. Try the local ales and the white-chocolate bread pudding. Prices are moderate.

Don't leave Salt Lake without trying at least one of the four restaurants run by Gastronomy. You'll find good seafood at the Market Street Grill (48 W. Market St.; 322-4668). The grill's home is the old New York Hotel, designed in 1906 by the architect of the Utah State Capitol. Prices for seafood entrees range from $14 to $40. Make sure you order Gastronomy's famous Chocolate Decadence.