Discovering downtown L.A - spending a leisurely weekend at Los Angeles, California

Sunset, Nov, 1996 by Matthew Jaffe

Water Grill. This downtown spot, in the historic Pacific Mutual Building, combines the woody feel of a vintage San Francisco grill with the splashy color of contemporary Los Angeles. It's known for its oyster and shellfish bar (we were fortunate to catch Copper River salmon in season). Around $75 for two, with wine. 544 S. Grand; 891-0900.

Lodging

Wyndham Checkers. This 188-room inn is the antithesis of the sterile modern hotels that dominate downtown. Ask for a room with a view overlooking the library. The hotel's Checkers Restaurant is one of downtown's finest. Even if you don't stay at the hotel, the rooftop spa breakfast ($12.50) with a view of the city is one of downtown's secret pleasures. The weekend package costs $159, including parking, a three-course dinner for two, and a 3 P.M. checkout. 535 S. Grand; 624-0000.

Regal Biltmore Hotel Weekend packages start at $129, including parking, continental breakfast, and use of the art deco pool and health spa. 506 S. Grand; 624-1011.