Rosti rounds for your holiday parties - pan-browned potato cakes - Brief Article

Sunset, Nov, 1996

When Ken Frank was a teenager living with his family in France, he became so hooked on that country's food that he eventually made it his profession. And one of the dishes that he credits for putting him on the path to chefdom and fame is pan-browned potato cakes.

You certainly can't call rosti - the name this dish goes by in Switzerland - fancy, but the version Frank serves at his West Hollywood restaurant, Fenix at the Argyle, most certainly is. Frank blankets the rosti rounds with creme fraiche, then blackens the cream with a dense layer of fresh caviar.

For the holidays, I borrowed his idea, but instead of pan-browning rosti cakes one at a time, I make a single big round rosti cake - starting it on the stove and finishing it in the oven - then cut it into wedges. Another liberty I take is to top the creme fraiche or sour cream with salmon caviar and green chives.

Oven Rosti

Prep and cook time: 45 to 50 minutes

Notes: For fresh salmon caviar, buy ikura in Japanese fish or food markets.

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

3 russet potatoes (about 1 1/2 lb. total) 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 6 tablespoons salmon caviar About 1/2 cup sour cream or creme fraiche 3 tablespoons snipped chives

1. Peel the russet potatoes, then shred them and quickly mix with lemon juice (to reduce-darkening) and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

2. Melt butter in a nonstick, ovenproof frying pan that measures 9 1/2 to 10 inches across the flat bottom. Pour in the potato mixture, and gently spread evenly. Cook on medium heat just until edges begin to lightly brown, 4 to 5 minutes (do not disturb base of potatoes).

3. Set pan in the upper half of a 450 [degrees] oven and bake until potatoes are brown and crisp on the bottom (lift an edge to check, disturbing potatoes as little as possible), 35 to 40 minutes. The top will be only partially browned.

4. Meanwhile, put salmon caviar in a fine strainer and rinse with cold running water to reduce saltiness. Drain well, then cover and chill.

5. Remove potato rosti from oven. (If making ahead, let cool in pan, then cover and let stand up to 4 hours. Reheat, uncovered, in a 350 [degrees] oven until crisp and hot, about 5 minutes.)

6. Invert hot rosti onto a flat plate and cut into wedges.

7. Put wedges on individual plates and top equally with sour cream, caviar, and chives. Add salt to taste.

Per serving: 149 cal., 50% (74 cal.) from fat; 4.9 g protein; 8.2 g fat (sat. fat not available); 15 g carbo.; 224 mg sodium; 85 mg chol.

EMERGENCY MEASURES

For the easiest dessert for a party or a family dinner, dress up ice cream with sauces that are hot by the time the ice cream is ready to scoop.

MOCHA VELVET. Put 4 ounces chopped semisweet chocolate, 2 tablespoons coffee liqueur, and 1 tablespoon rum in a 2- to 4-cup glass measuring cup (the handle makes it easy to grab). Heat in a microwave oven on full power (100 percent) for 30 seconds; stir. Then heat at 10-second intervals, stirring between, until chocolate is melted. Ladle over vanilla, chocolate, coffee, or peppermint ice cream. Makes 1/2 cup.

BITTER ORANGE SAUCE. Put 1/3 cup orange marmalade, 1/4 cup whipping cream, and 1 tablespoon orange-flavor liqueur in a 4-cup glass measure. Heat in a microwave oven on full power (100 percent) for 1 1/2 minutes; stir. Then heat for about 2 minutes, until sauce is reduced to 1/2 cup. Pour over vanilla, chocolate, eggnog, or strawberry ice cream.