Save those bones - Roasted-Turkey Broth

Sunset, Nov, 1996 by Elaine Johnson

With broth like this, who needs gravy?" said a friend as he spooned some over his mashed potatoes. Good broth transforms the simplest recipe into something grand - with only a speck of fat. I make a big batch, then freeze it for risottos, sauces, and soups.

There are two secrets to making exceptional broth. Brown the bones, and simmer the works for at least eight hours. (Start the broth in the morning, strain it around suppertime, cool it briefly, then chill. The next day, ladle it into containers.)

For the soup shown above, bring 6 cups of broth to a boil with 2 cups each diced potatoes and thinly sliced, slender leeks. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add 1/3 cup alphabet pasta and 1 cup matchstick-size carrot pieces; simmer for 4 minutes.

Before serving, add 1 cup paper-thin slices fennel bulb and 3/4 cup frozen peas. Serves 6.

Roasted-Turkey Broth

Prep and cook time: 9 to 13 hours, plus at least 1 hour for cooling

Makes: 4 to 5 quarts

Carcass from a 12- to 18-pound cooked turkey (and roasting pan it was cooked in, if available)

4 unpeeled onions (2 lb. total)

1 head fennel (3 3/4 in. wide, 1 lb.)

2 carrots (1/2 lb. total)

3 outer stalks celery

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

2 dried bay leaves

1. If using roasting pan from turkey, pour drippings into a 1-quart glass measuring cup, and set aside. With hands and sturdy scissors, break and cut carcass into chunks to fit in a 12- to 16-quart pan. Place chunks in a single layer in turkey roasting pan or in a clean 11- by 17-inch roasting pan. Roast in a 500 [degrees] oven until well browned, 35 to 40 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large teakettle of water to a boil.

2. With tongs, lift turkey pieces to the 12- to 16-quart pan. Pour pan drippings into cup with other drippings. Place roasting pan across 2 burners over high heat. Add 2 cups water and stir to loosen browned bits, about 3 minutes. Pour liquid and scrape loosened bits into the pan with turkey pieces. Discard fat from drippings, then add the drippings to the pan.

3. Quarter onions. Cut fennel tops into 3-inch lengths; quarter fennel head. Cut carrots and celery into 3-inch lengths. Add the vegetables, peppercorns, and bay leaves to pan with bones. Add boiling water from teakettle plus enough water (5 to 5 1/2 qt. total) to cover bones and seasonings by 2 inches. Cover pan; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer for 8 to 12 hours.

4. Set a large colander over a 6- to 8-quart pan. With tongs and a ladle, lift most of the bones and seasonings into colander. Let drain, then discard contents of colander. Set pan with colander in sink. Protecting hands with mitts, pour broth through colander. Lift colander to drain; discard seasonings. Let broth cool 1 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

5. Skim and discard fat from broth, or place the pan on a thick towel and chill, uncovered, until broth is cold, then skim fat from broth. Use broth, chill airtight up to 4 days, or freeze up to 6 months.

Per cup: 21 cal., 13% (2.7 cal.) from fat; 2.8 g protein; 0.3 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 1.9 g carbo.; 98 mg sodium; 3.4 mg chol.