Cabo grows up - Los Cabos resort, Baja peninsula, Mexico

Sunset, Nov, 1997 by Matthew Jaffe

Enter Las Ventanas al Paraiso. This resort comes pretty close to living up to its name, which translates as the windows to paradise. Located in the hotel-rich corridor between San Jose and San Lucas, it blends European and Asian standards of luxury with a more casual Mexican style. River stone has been inlaid into floors and other surfaces by Mexican artisans. Cedar doors and cabinets are hand-carved. The hotel is tasteful, understated, and, in the context of the new Cabo, not entirely overpriced at $325 a night and up.

The changes in Cabo extend beyond the hotels. As recently as 1990, San Jose del Cabo was pretty much the village it always had been, with only a few tourist shops. By last spring, San Jose too had grown up, though it had managed to retain its charm. It was scrubbed, gently lit, and filled with boutiques and restaurants that provide a real alternative to the action in San Lucas.

You don't have to be an old Baja hand to recognize, and maybe even lament, such changes at Cabo, even the relatively minor ones at San Jose. But you also don't have to go too far to find that stranded feeling of desert and sea. Like Santa Maria Bay next to the Hotel Twin Dolphin. Snorkel awhile among the angelfish, puffers, and wrasses, then come out and sit on the beach. Take it all in. There are days you'll have it to yourself. And, after all, that's really what a desert island is all about.

Even if it is on a peninsula.

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Snorkeling. Summer is the best time for snorkeling and diving, but conditions are generally good throughout the year. While the water temperature is never frigid, you might consider a half-wetsuit if you plan to be in for a while. Rentals are available through most hotels for about $10 a day for snorkel, mask, and fins, and another $5 for a wetsuit. A typical two-hour guided snorkeling trip costs $25, including equipment. We particularly like Santa Maria Bay, but there are good spots at Chileno Beach and around the rocks just east of the Palmilla. Another option is Los Lobos del Mar at the Brisas del Mar RV Park in San Jose, which offers day and half-day snorkel/kayak trips.

Sportfishing. You can reserve boats through your hotel or just walk around the harbor at Cabo San Lucas and see who you meet. An old friend who knows Baja well told us to go out in early afternoon, when the boats are returning, to see which one is bringing in the most fish (they fly pennants signifying their catch). You may even get a good deal late in the afternoon if the captain doesn't have passengers for the next day.

Pangas cost $175 for the day, while larger cabin cruisers can run $500 or more; half-days are sometimes available. On impulse, we went out one morning on the No Limit with Russ Moss (714/443-3822) and caught a small striped marlin - which, of course, we released.

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Los Cabos is the easiest Mexican resort to reach from the West. It's just two hours by air from Los Angeles and Phoenix, with direct service from many other Western cities. The main carriers are Mexicana and Alaska Airlines. Book as early as possible because flights sell out, especially during the high season, November through May.