Teatime in latte land - tea-drinking venues and tea shops in Seattle, Washington

Sunset, Nov, 1997

Seattle-area coffee shops are in no danger of being elbowed out by teahouses. Well, not yet, anyway

We are sitting around a table dominated by a perforated-metal tray with a rosewood rim. On it rests a tiny tea set made of purple clay, though it appears brown. Purple clay tea services are functional art objects of the highest order. Joe Hsu wouldn't serve tea in anything else.

This is Hsu's store, Seattle's Best Tea, a small, bright, modern shop in the International District. Hsu is showing me how to brew a cup of tea. Deliberately, he pours boiling water from an electric kettle into and over the empty pot to clean it ("never use detergent on the clay," he says through his interpreter and associate, Scott Searer). He pours the water from the pot onto the tray, where it drains into a well below. And then he scoops the curled leaves of a high-mountain spring oolong from a silver tin, dumps them into the pot, adds boiling water, and waits.

While the brew steeps, Hsu talks tea. Showing me a map of his homeland, Taiwan, he points out the different agricultural regions and names the teas each is known for. Like varietal wine grapes, premium teas come from prized plants grown in specific areas.

Finally he pours the tea through a strainer into a tea decanter. The tiny clay cups are slightly larger than a thimble but smaller than a golf ball and have the feel of finely textured stone. More boiling water goes over them for cleaning. Then the tea is served.

The scent is full and flowery, clean and invigorating - like the high mountains of Taiwan in spring? We take a sip. Ahhh ... the taste echoes the aroma. Hsu smiles and I nod. Pleasure needs no interpreter.

Seattle's Best Tea is at 506 S. King St., across from Uwajimaya. Teas cost $20-$217 per pound. One pound makes about 400 cups. For a group tea session, call (206) 749-9855.

Where to take tea

ASIAN TEAROOMS

Kado TeaGarden. More than 50 Asian teas are served in the airy lower level of the Seattle Asian Art Museum in Volunteer Park. Light meals are also available, as are gifts and bulk teas. No reservations are taken, and museum admission is not required. Open 11-5:30 Thu, 11-4:30 Fri-Sun. 1400 E. Prospect St.; (206) 729-1070.

Pekoe, A Global Teahouse. Come here for pure varietal teas from around the world. 1509 Western Ave., Seattle; (206) 682-7274.

Seattle Art Museum. The Urasenke Foundation hosts a formal Japanese Chanoyu tea ceremony about once a month in the third-floor teahouse of the museum's downtown home. Suggested donation to the museum is $6, $4 students and seniors. 100 University St.; (206) 654-3121.

TeaCup. Choose from more than 100 teas - from black to oolong to green - as well as tea gear such as purple clay pots. 2207 Queen Anne Ave. N., Seattle; (206) 283-5931.

Teahouse Kuan Yin. Snacks such as spring rolls and pastries complement teas from China, Japan, Taiwan, India, Sri Lanka, and Malaysia. 1911 N. 45th St., Seattle; (206) 632-2055.

BRITISH TEA PARLORS

British Pantry. Afternoon tea is served from 2:30-4:30 at this Eastside tearoom. 8125 161st Ave. N.E., Redmond, WA; (425) 883-7511.

Lisa's Tea Treasures. This large, multiroomed Victorian-style tea restaurant carries more than 100 teas. New this year are six-course tea dinners. 10687 N.E. Second St., Bellevue, WA; (425) 453-4832.

Perennial Tea Room. A great place for teapots of all kinds, whimsical, elegant, and Asian, as well as teas and books on tea. 1910 Post Alley, Seattle; (206) 448-4054.

Queen Mary. A gathering spot for afternoon tea from 2-5, with an interior straight out of Laura Ashley. 2912 N.E. 55th St., Seattle; (206) 527-2770.

Windsor Garden Tea Room. Linen-covered tables, bone china, and finger sandwiches remind one of a village tea shop. 110 Fourth Ave. N., Edmonds, WA; (425) 712-1387.