The gods walk here

Sunset, Nov, 1998 by Matthew Jaffe

Strange, too, how in a place where the Earth is at its most spectacular, people resort to unearthly terms to describe it. John Wayne put it this way: "Monument Valley in 1938 was heaven." When I ask Gene Foushee about the valley in the late '40s, he, too, uses that word. Heaven.

I can't say for sure that Monument Valley in 1998 is heaven. I think it may be too dusty for that. But, I will say this. If the gods do walk anywhere on Earth, they walk here.

RELATED ARTICLE: Navajo etiquette

The more than 200,000 Navajo who live in the Four Corners region form a complex and varied society. Many mix regularly with the outside world, but others do not speak fluent English. Visitors should respect Navajo privacy and traditional custom. Among the rules:

* Travel only on designated roads unless accompanied by a guide.

* Off-road travel by four-wheel-drive vehicles, dune buggies, and motorcycles is not allowed on backcountry roads.

* Rock climbing and off-trail hiking are prohibited.

* Personal photography is allowed, but ask permission before photographing an individual. A gratuity is appreciated.

- Roberta John

RELATED ARTICLE: The essential Monument Valley

Most of Monument Valley lies within 30,000-acre Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. The park stretches along the Arizona-Utah border, approximately 400 miles south of Salt Lake City and 300 miles north of Phoenix. (For a map, see page 75.) Average high temperature in November is 50 [degrees].

Gateway cities are Kayenta, Arizona, and Bluff and Mexican Hat, Utah.

TOURING THE VALLEY, Your first stop should be the Monument Valley Visitor Center (open daily; 435/727-3287) off U.S. 163. Operated by the Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department, it will supply you with much information about the valley. Jewelry, ceramic pottery, and souvenirs are for sale.

Most people choose to see the valley with a Navajo tour guide. To get a comprehensive list of guides before you begin your trip, call the Navajo Tourism Department at (520) 871-6436. The staff at either visitor center should also be able to assist you when you arrive.

Guided tours can vary from a minimum of two hours to a full day. On the longer tours, some guides will introduce you to traditional Navajo foods or show you how native plants and herbs are used for ceremonial purposes.

You can also tour the valley on a self-guided horseback or auto tour. Brochures for both options are available at the Monument Valley Visitor Center.

Dining

STAGECOACH DINING ROOM. At Goulding's Museum & Trading Post, the restaurant features American food and a few Navajo dishes. While you're here, you may want to visit the nearby museum (open daily) that showcases the Hollywood directors and actors who helped introduce Monument Valley to the world. 1000 Main St., 2 miles west of the Monument Valley Tribal Park turnoff from U.S. 163; (435) 727-3231.

HASHKE NEINIIH RESTAURANT, Run by the Navajo Nation Hospitality Enterprise, the restaurant features dishes from Navajo tacos to fry bread. Monument Valley Visitor Center; (435) 727-3287.