Centennial thanksgiving

Sunset, Nov, 1998 by James Carrier

* One hundred years of Thanksgivings has given Sunset a treasured legacy of menus and recipes. Some are inspired by the bounty. of Western markets, some by the region's rich ethnic-cultural influences and others by the temperate climate.

To honor this heritage in our Centennial year, we offer this collection of Sunset's most enduring Thanksgiving recipes. Some have been updated and lightened. You can choose one of the four menus, each with its own game plan. One is unsparingly lavish, another generous but low in fat. And two are the most popular Thanksgiving dinners in our history: the Turkey Loco meal, in which a grilled butterflied bird zings with Mexican style, and the Almost-No-Recipe Thanksgiving, which delivers a great meal with little work.

APPETIZERS, FIRST COURSES & SALADS

Crisp tip. For a head start, crisp salad greens such as watercress, Belgian endive, spinach, and lettuces: rinse in cold water, drain well, wrap in towels, enclose in a plastic bag, and chill 30 minutes or up to 2 days.

Gorgonzola and Belgian Endive (1987)

PREP TIME: About 5 minutes

MAKES: 10 tO 12 servings

1. Trim discolored stem ends from 5 or 6 heads (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb. total) rinsed and drained Belgian endive. Separate endive leaves down to small centers. Cut centers in half lengthwise.

2. Place a 1/2-pound chunk of gorgonzola or other blue-veined cheese in the center of a platter. Arrange endive, tips pointing out, around cheese. Serve with a small knife.

3. To eat, cut off a small bit of cheese and put it on a piece of endive.

Per serving: 73 cal., 74% (54 cal.) from fat; 4.4 g protein; 6 g fat (4 g sat.); 1.3 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 263 mg sodium; 17 mg chol.

Antojitos Tray (1984)

PREP TIME: 15 to 20 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 4 hours ahead, cover tray and let stand at room temperature.

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings

1. Rinse and drain 4 oranges (about 1/2 lb. each). Cut each into 8 wedges. Rinse and drain 1 pineapple (about 4 lb.). Cut crosswise through peel into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Cut each slice into quarters. Save pineapple crown for decoration or discard. Scrub and peel 1 1/2 pounds jicama. Cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick sticks.

2. Arrange fruit and jicama (and pineapple crown, if desired) on a rimmed platter. Drizzle fruit and jicama with about 1/2 cup lime juice. Cut 2 limes into wedges and put on platter.

3. In a small dish, mix to blend 1/4 cup salt, 1 tablespoon paprika, and 1 teaspoon cayenne. Place seasoned salt on platter.

4. To eat, dip foods in salt to taste, squeeze juice from lime wedges over pieces, or do both.

Per serving without salt: 84 cal., 5.4% (4.5 cal.) from fat; 1.1 g protein; 0.5 g fat (0 g sat.); 21 g carbo (4.8 g fiber); 2.9 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Per 1/2 teaspoon salt: 1.1 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0 g protein; 0 g fat; 0.2 g carbo (0 g fiber); 1,163 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Candied Cranberries with Cheese and Crisp Crusts (1986)

PREP AND COOK TIME: 45 to 55 minutes

NOTES: Up to 3 days ahead, make, cover, and chill candied cranberries. Up to 2 days ahead, crisp lettuce (see crisp tip, page 116). Up to I day ahead, slice, cover, and chill cheese; make crusts, cool, and store airtight at room temperature.

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings

2 cups cranberries, fresh or thawed frozen

About 3/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon mixed whole picking spice

1 baguette (8 oz.)

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

1 teaspoon kosher salt

About 1/2 pound cheddar cheese

30 to 36 inner butter lettuce leaves, rinsed and crisped

6 glaceed chestnuts, cut into quarters (optional)

1. Sort cranberries and discard any soft or decayed fruit. Rinse berries. In a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan, combine cranberries, 3/4 cup sugar, and pickling spice. Cover and set over low heat. Stir occasionally until cranberries are translucent, sugar dissolves, and a syrup forms, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat, uncover, and let stand until cranberries are warm or cool.

2. Meanwhile, cut baguette diagonally into 30 to 36 slices. Lightly brush I side of each slice with butter. Set slices, buttered side up, in a 10- by 15 -inch pan. Mix salt with 1 teaspoon sugar and lightly sprinkle over bread.

3. Bake baguette slices in a 325 [degrees] oven until bread is dry and golden at edges, about 20 minutes. Use warm or cool.

4. With a cheese spade or vegetable slicer, cut cheese into thin slices and mound lightly in a dish. Put cranberries, lettuce, and chestnuts in separate small bowls. Arrange baguette slices in a basket.

5. To eat, set a baked baguette slice on a lettuce leaf and top with a slice of cheese, candied cranberries, and a chestnut piece.

Per serving: 205 cal., 39% (79 cal.) from fat; 6.8 g protein; 8.8 g fat (5.3 g sat.) 25 g carbo (1.4 g fiber); 376 mg sodium; 25 mg chol.

Spinach Salad with Pine Nut Dressing (1966)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Up to 2 days ahead, crisp spinach (see crisp tip, page 1 16). Up to 1 day ahead, toast nuts and make dressing; cover and chill separately.

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings

1/2 cup pine nuts

1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel