Viewing the Na Pali coast up close by inflatable craft - Kauai's erosion cliffs, Hawaii

Sunset, June, 1988

Viewing the Na Pali Coast up close by inflatable craft Oldest, roughest, and greenest of the Hawaiian Islands, Kauai boasts a masterwork of erosion--the Na Pali Coast. The easiest way to get good views of its towering, fluted cliffs, waterfalls, and hidden caves is by water; the alternative is a rigorous walk on a 12-mile cliffside trail. More than 20 boat companies tour the coast, but only a half-dozen use inflatable rubber craft that can scoot right up to the cliffs for an intimate look. Twice-daily boat trips depart from Hanalei Bay, on Kauai's north shore (about 35 miles or an hour's drive from the airport in Lihue). Skimming along the coastline in boasts made famous by Jacques Yves Cousteau, you'll rove in and out of sea caves (some with internal waterfalls) and search for dolphins and whales. You'll stop in the calm waters of a protected bay for snorkeling and refreshment before returning to Hanalei. (Cost includes snorkel gear, life jackets, and, in some cases, lunch.) Business is brisk; it's wise to plan in advance. Group rates are offered for parties of 4 or more (boats carry 12 to 15); ask when you call to reserve space. Write or call for details; area code is 808. Bali Hai Charters, Box 313, Hanalei 96714; 826-9787. Cost: $50 adults, $40 ages 6 to 12. Captain Zodiac's Raft Expeditions, Box 456, Hanalei 96714; 826-9371 or (800) 422-7824. Five-hour tours: $90 adults, $70 ages 2 to 11; 3 1/2-hour tours: $55 and $40. Fantasy Island Adventures, Box 638, Koloa 96756; 742-6570. Cost: $42.50 adults, $35 ages 3 to 12. Na Pali Kauai Boat Tours, Box 3224, Princeville 96722; 826-7254. Cost: $55 adults, $27.50 ages 12 and under. Ocean Ventures, Box 236, Kilauea 96754; 828-1447 or 826-6151. Cost: $55 adults, $35 ages 12 and under. Sea Kauai, Box 1437, Hanalei 96714; 828-1488. Cost: $65 adults, $45 ages 5 to 11.

PHOTO : Inflatables load up and embark at mouth of Hanalei River. Wear swimsuit, shorts, sun

PHOTO : screen. Craft offer no shade and no seats; you perch on the inflated sides

PHOTO : Guide points out historic Kalalau Trail traversing cliffs of Na Pali coastline, once the

PHOTO : heart of Kauai's civilization. Trip last 4 hours, with a stop for snorkeling