"Wild" to traditional, beef to buffalo, boneless choices for a holiday roast - recipes

Sunset, Dec, 1988

Carving the roast is a cinch with these boneless cuts from the loin or tenderloin. Embellished with a shiny glaze or flavorful marinade, they're simple, stunning entrees for your holiday dinner.

The loin is a muscle (sometimes called a strip loin) on each side of the backbone on the outside of the ribs; the tenderloin lies inside the ribs on each side. These little-used muscles are the tenderest part of the animal. Both, being long and slender, roast quickly at high temperatures, generally in less than an hour.

Conservative eaters might prefer beef or pork; the more adventurous can consider game, such as buffalo, caribou, or venison. Often labeled as wild, these three are actually ranch raised. Buffalo tastes much like beef. Caribou and venison have a more intense, faintly sweet flavor.

Loin and tenderloin roasts come at a premium. A boneless pork loin is the most reasonable $15 to $20 for a 4-pound piece. A 4- to 5-pound beef tenderloin will range between $35 and $50. Beef tenderloin or boneless pork loin may be available at a moment's notice, but during the holidays call a few days in advance.

For game, order as much as a month ahead (look in the yellow pages under Game or Meat). Game is often sold frozen, so you can buy it early and store it in your freezer. Some wholesalers will sell direct to the consumer and may offer the best price. There are also mail-order sources (for a list, send a stamped, selfaddressed envelope to Wild Game, Sunset Magazine, 80 Willow Rd., Menlo Park, Calif. 94025). Prices are high and vary considerably expect to pay at least $50 to $75 for a 4-pound game roast so ask about cost before placing an order.

1 whole beef tenderloin (4 to 5 Ib.), 1 boned venison loin (4 to 6 Ib.) or 1

   Roast Loin of Pork with               rolled and tied, or 1 whole
boned caribou loin
(4 to 6 Ib.)Cranberry-Chili Relish                buffalo tenderloin (4 to 5 Ib.
)        1/4 cup

salad oil

3 cups fresh or frozen cranberries 1 cup Dison mustard

13/4 cups dry red wine, such as Merlot

3/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 small onion, minced

1 tablespoon finely shredded orange 3 tablespoons dry sherry

1 clove garlic, minced or pressed

   peel                                  3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 dry bay leaf
   1 cup orange juice                    3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons dry

juniper berries

1 to 2 fresh jalapeno chilies, 3 tablespoons Oriental sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon dry thyme leaves

stemmed, seeded, and minced

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 tablespoon coarse-ground pepper

1 boned, rolled, and tied center-cut

1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter or margarine

pork loin (3-1/2 to 4 lb.)

1/3 to 1/2 pound chanterelle or button

Orange wedges

mushrooms, rinsed, drained, and

   salt
thinly sliced

2 cups

regular-strength beef broth

1 /4 cup red currant jelly

1 cup whipping cream

Set aside 1/4 cup cranberries. In a food processor or with a knife, coarsely chop remaining cranberries. Put chopped fruit into a 2- to 3-quart pan. Add sugar, orange peel, orange juice, chili, and shallots. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and boil gently, uncovered, stirring often until mixture thickens slightly, 8 to 10 minutes.

Place pork, fat side up, on a rack in a 12by 15-inch roasting pan. Roast in a 375' oven until a thermometer inserted in center of thickest part of meat registers 155', 55 to 65 minutes. Measure out 1/2 cup of the cranberry relish; brush it on the roast as it cooks, adding frequently and using it all. Transfer roast to a platter.

Garnish with reserved cranberries and orange wedges. Slice meat crosswise and accompany with remaining relish and salt to add to taste. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Per 3-ounce fat-trimmed serving: 272 cal; 22g protein; 23 g carbo.; 10 g fat; 69 mg chol.; 54 mg sodium.

Soy Mustard-glazed Beef or Buffalo

You can usually have your meatman tie and roll the beef tenderloin. You may have to trim and tie the buffalo yourself.

Neatly trim any excess fat from roast, if needed. On the buffalo, trim off or scrape free all fibrous sinew and silvery membrane (if present); discard. Reserve any scraps of meat for other uses. To make an evenly shaped roast, tie snugly at 1-1/2- to 2-inch intervals with a cotton string, tucking thin end of roast under, if needed.

Mix the mustard, sugar, sherry, soy sauce, ginger, and oil. Rub meat all over with 1/3 of the mixture; set the rest aside. Place meat on a rack in a 12- by 17-inch roasting pan. Roast in a 425' oven for 30 minutes. Brush to coat with some of the reserved mustard sauce. Continue roasting until a thermometer inserted in center of the thickest part registers 130' for rare (do not overcook buffalo or it will be very dry), 10 to 25 minutes longer.

Transfer roast to a platter and let rest in a warm place 10 to 15 minutes. Pour remaining mustard sauce into a small serving bowl. Slice meat crosswise and offer sauce to spoon over each portion. Makes 10 to 12 servings.