Chateau Sierra chicken? It was a tour de force of the back-country chef - recipes

Sunset, June, 1989

Originally devised as a gourmet's dinner for a back-country pack trip, Chateau Sierra Chicken called for preparation in advance. The chicken roulades were shaped, then ftozen and transported, well insulated, to tbe first night's campsite, where they were unwrapped and cooked over a fire. We present a somewhat more elaborate version here, for diners who prefer to have a floor under their feet. The basic chicken preparation is the same, but a pan sauce of broth, drippings, wine, and sour cream makes for additional richness.

Chateau Sierra Chicken

2 whole chicken breasts (about 1 lb. each), skinned, boned, cut in half

2 to 3 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 clove garlic, minced or mashed

2 teaspoons chopped parsley

3 tablespoons dry white wine

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup regular-strength chicken broth

1/2 cup sour cream

Salt

Place each piece of chicken between sheets of plastic wrap. With a flat mallet, pound until chicken is about 3/8 inch thick. Top each piece with 1/4 of the cheese, 1 teaspoon of the butter, 1/4 of the garlic, 1/4 of the parsley, and I teaspoon of the wine. Roll chicken to enclose filling, and secure with toothpicks.

In a paper or plastic bag, combine flour, paprika, and pepper. Coat chicken pieces with flour mixture; shake off excess. Reserve flour mixture.

In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, melt the remaining butter; add chicken pieces, Turn often until evenly browned on all sides. Add broth; cover, reduce beat, and simmer until chicken is no longer pink in center (cut to test), 6 to 8 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer chicken to a warm platter; keep warm. Blend remaining wine with 1 teaspoon of the reserved flour; mix with sour cream, then whisk mixture into pan juices. Stir over high heat until sauce just comes to a boil. Pour sauce over chicken. Add salt to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 375 cal.; 39 g protein; 20 g fat; 8 g carbo.; 260 mg sodium; 133 mg chol.

The central Asian steppes that gave us the Huns, the Tatars, and the Mongols also gave us garlic, which has extended its empire to lands of which Genghis Khan never even dreamed, Garlic invaded Europe and the Near East early; it was well known to the ancient Egyptians as well as to the Greeks and Romans. The last peoples to submit were the British, the Scandinavians, and their descendants, who were overcome by Trojan borse-like tactics-the garlic sneaking in while hidden in ethnic foods of nearly every kind.

We are all comfortable now with garlic as a seasoning, but it is still uncommon as a principal ingredient, as it is in Trent Anderson's sopa de ajo (garlic soup). Slow sauteeing modifies the garlic's native assertiveness, leaving the soup with just a hint of the warm flavor.

Sopa de Ajo

1 head garlic

1 1/2 tablespoons salad oil

6 cups or 1 large can (49 1/2 oz.) regular-strength chicken broth

1/4 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil (optional)

3 tablespoons each finely chopped red bell pepper and green onions with tops

Fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves Peel garlic; thinly slice cloves. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-low heat, combine oil and garlic. Stir often until garlic is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, pour broth into a 4- to 5quart pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. When garlic is done, ladle about 1/2 cup of the broth into the frying pan and stir to free any browned bits, then pour garlic mixture back into broth. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes to blend flavors. Add sesame oil, bell pepper, and green onions and cook until hot, 2 to 3 minutes, Ladle into small bowls, adding 2 or 3 cilantro leaves to each. Makes 5 or 6 firstcourse servings, about 1-cup size.

Per serving: 80 cal.; 3 g protein; 4.9 g fat; 5.8 g carbo.; 56 mg sodium; 0 mg chol

Novato, Calif.

Pork chops have always been the people's meat. Back when a chicken every Sunday was a distant dream, one could still reasonably hope for pork chops. Indeed, the word pork has populist overtones when it refers to political favors, construction contracts, or the placement of military bases. The term pork chop itself has such a staccato, rifle-fire sort of reverberation it seems fitting that a celebrated World War II battle took the name of Pork Chop Hill. Who ever beard of a Filet Mignon Hill?

Pork, because of the way it is now produced, is leaner than it used to be. And when surface fat is trimmed away, even marbled, succulent cuts like shoulder chops are proportionately leaner. Pork is also a rich source of vitamin B1. The real reason for eating pork, though, is the flavor. In James Hensinger's Country Casserole, both flavor and texture are notably enhanced by chicken broth, steak sauce, green chilies, and slow cooking. The addition of potatoes and carrots makes this a genuine one-dish meal.

Country Casserole

4 shoulder pork chops, each abOUt 3/4 inch thick (about 1 3/4 lb. total)

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons salad oil 1 can (1 01/2 oz.) condensed chicken broth