History lessons on the Missouri … by canoe. Paddling trips show you Lewis and Clark's West

Sunset, June, 1991

Days 1 and 2 cover the 42-mile valley from Fort Benton to Coal Banks Landing. Bordered by cottonwood groves and rounded bluffs, this is the oldest part of the river--its channel unaltered by glaciers that bent it north at Coal Banks.

Days 3, 4, and part of 5 bear you through the spectacular 50-mile White Cliffs section between Coal Banks Landing and Judith Landing. Sandstone cliffs and igneous-domed rocks crowd the river, the combined artistry of volcanic activity and wind. Lewis described these "seens of visionary inchantment" as "eligant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary." Homesteader cabins are ghosts of an early 1900s land rush.

Days 5, 6, and 7 along the isolated 60 miles between Judith Landing and Fred Robinson bridges are within the Missouri Breaks region that trappers called mauvaises terres (badlands). Rounded hills dotted with ponderosa pine and Douglas fir give way to steep, sharply eroded, bare cliffs with narrow gullies that look as if a giant had set down his hand in soft clay.

Bring binoculars for this section, which offers the best wildlife viewing: more than 230 species of birds--pelicans, golden eagles, prairie falcons--wing the skies over bighorn sheep, mule deer, sharp-tailed grouse, and soft-shelled turtles. And don't forget a fishing rod: walleye, catfish, and prehistoric flat-nosed paddlefish swim the waters below. Licenses ($10 for two days, $38 for the summer) are available at Fort Benton's Coast to Coast store, 1422 Front Street.

Planning your trip

Unless noted, the area code is 406 and the zip code is 59442.

In and near Fort Benton

Visitor information, Karen's Insta-Print, 1402 Front Street; 622-5634. Free walking tour brochures are available here June 1 through September 1, 9 to 5 weekdays, 10 to 2 Saturdays.

Museum of the Upper Missouri, Front and 18th streets; 622-5494. Admission: $2 adults, $1 ages 6 through 12 (includes entry to Museum of the Northern Great Plains). Open 9 to 7 daily from May 15 through September 15, 10 to 5 September 16 through October 15, and 10 to 3 May 1 through May 14; or by appointment.

Museum of the Northern Great Plains, 20th and Washington streets (Box 262); call 622-5494 for information. Hours and ticket price included above; opens an hour later May 15 through September 15.

BLM Visitor Center, 1718 Front Street; 622-5185 in summer, 538-7461 winter. Open 8 to 6 daily May 18 through September 9; other months, write to River Manager, Airport Road, Lewistown 59457.

Lodging. Rates are per night, double.

Fort Model, 1809 St.Charles Street; 622-312. A serviceable 11-room motel on the outskirts of town; $35.

Pioneer Lodge, 1700 Front Street; 622-5441. A nine room downtown motel near the river; $40 rate includes continental breakfast.

Virgelle Mercantile Antiques, HCR 67, Box 50, Loma 59460; (800 0) 426-2926. Old-timey, riverside bed-and-breakfast; go 22 miles northeast on U.S. Highway 87, then follow signs 8 miles to Coal Banks Landing. Four B & B rooms cost $85 (by reservation only; $20 deposit); three cabins cost $40.