Say good-bye to spindly picnic tables

Sunset, June, 1991

Say good-bye to spindly picnic tables Graced with the simple, rugged look of the Southwest, this big table-and-bench set is handsome enough to bring indoors. Unlike many picnic tables with spindly, crossed legs made out of a 2-by-4s, this one has sturdy vertical 4-by-4s in each corner. The table and benches are 6 feet long, so there's room for at least three diners on each side. Sinc the table is more than 3 feet wide, you can also pull up chairs at the ends.

The frame and leg design is really what distinguishes this set from most. The upper portions of the 4-by-4 legs have been notched on two sides so the perimeter frame can rest on a 1-inch-wide lip (see sketch on page 100). The frame then bolts to the notched part of the legs. The tops of the table and benches are 2-by-6 boards that are screwed to the frames; the screw holes are plugged to give a neatly detailed, finished appearance.

This set was built of redwood and given a dressy, two-tone stain in green and warm brown. You could choose a clear sealer or select other colors. Since the project uses standard-dimension lumber, you could substitute other softwoods, such as fir or cedar, and paint or stain them as you please.

The table and benches can be built by a home woodworker over two or three weekends. For cutting the notched detail of the legs, a router, or a table saw or radial-arm saw with dado blades would be helpful. Other required power tools include a circular saw, saber saw, electric drill, and finish sander. You'll also need a screwdriver, hammer, square, tape measure, large clamp, vise, wrench, sharp chisel, and 3/8-inch plug cutter.

Starting the frame and legs

Building the base is most time-consuming part of the construction. After buying the wood and hardware (see list in box above), start by cutting the 4-by-4s to size. For the table, you'll need four 27 1/2-inch lengths, and for the two benches, eight 14 3/4-inch lengths.

Notching the legs comes next. All the notches will be 1 inch deep, but since the table has 2-by-6s for its frame and the benches have 2-by-4 frames, the notches will be of different lengths: 5 1/2 inches long for the table's 2-by-6s, and 3 1/2 inches for the two benches' 2-by-4s.

All three frames have mitered ends that are glued (with waterproof glue) and nailed together with countersunk 16d finishing nails. Bench and table frames are reinforced by two 2-by-4 crosspieces spaced at even intervals from the ends. (The 2-by-6 tops will also be screwed to these crosspieces.)

For each bench frame, cut the 2-by-4s into two 14 3/4-inch end pieces with mitered ends, two 68-inch sides with mitered ends, and two 11 3/4-inch crosspieces with squared ends.

For the table frame, cut the 2-by-6s into two 37 1/2-inch ends and two 68-inch sides, all with mitered ends. For crosspieces, cut two 34 1/2-inch 2-by-4s with squared ends.

To give the table's frame a decorative touch and more knee clearance, we cut gently curved slanting Ss to taper each 2-by-6 from a width of 5 1/2 inches near the corners to 4 inches along their straight center sections. Make a cardboard template to draw identical curves; start them 5 inches in from each mitered end. To cut the curves, use a saber saw. Make the straight cuts with a table saw or with a circular saw.

Assemble the frames for both benches and the table, gluing and nailing each corner joint: set two nails at opposite edges on the long sides and hammer them into the end pieces; center one nail at each short end and hammer into the sides. (The nail placement is important when you later drill holes for bolts.) Nail the crosspieces 22 1/2 inches in from each end and flush with frame tops. Fill set nails.

After the glue has dried, turn each frame upside-down on a flat work surface. On the side and end pieces, draw vertical lines 2 3/4 inches in from each corner. On the lines drawn on the side pieces, mark points 1 inch from the top and bottom. On the lines drawn on the end pieces, mark the center point. These points will show you where to drill holes for the bolts (bolts should parallel the nails on each side).

Assembling the base

With the frame still upside-down, position a leg vertically into a corner with the notches facing the frame. Use a square and clamp to hold the leg perpendicular. Using a drill with a 9/16-inch bit, drill three holes through the marked points on the frame and the 4-by-4 leg behind. Number the leg and corner, repeat for each corner of the three frames.

Before final assembly of the base, sand all the legs and frames. For added protection against possible splintering of the legs when the benches or table are dragged, bevel their bottom edges, using a sander, wood rasp, or saw. The bevels should extend between 1/8 and 1/4 inch up the sides of the legs.

To give the rounded ends of the carriage bolts a less shiny, more handcrafted look, we blemished their tops by hitting them repeatedly with a hammer while they were held in a vise (see the photograph below left).

Matching the numbers on the legs and frames, glue and bolt the legs into position. The 4 1/2-inch bolts should extend 1/2 inch through the legs. While making sure the legs are square to the frame, add washers and tighten the nuts. Clean off excess glue. If you're planning a two-tone look, stain the bases at this time.