Breakfast for a crowd - recipes - The Good Foods of Summer

Sunset, June, 1991

Breakfast for a crowd

It's scrambled eggs, as many as 4 dozen at a crack, buried under a blanket of toppings (including some of everyone's favorites) that kick the Magill family reunion into gear.

About 20 years ago, this family first gathered to honor patriarch Grandfather Magill on his 80th birthday; the reunion was such a success it's been repeated annually. From 50 to 100 of the 200-plus clan attend. The first event is a big breakfast. The way they manage the eggs translates well for any breakfast or brunch, big or small, indoors or out.

The method described here gives good results even under quite primitive conditions. Testing facilities were campfires at public campgrounds.

Cooking Eggs for 2 to 48

The secret of the eggs' moist quality and tender texture is thickened chicken or beef broth beaten into them before they are cooked. The sauce also extends the heat tolerance of the eggs.

Select quantity of ingredients and pan size to match. Blend broth with cornstartch until smooth in a pan that's at least 2 to 4 cups bigger than the amount of liquid. Bring mixture to a boil, stirring often. Let cool slightly (if made ahead, cover and chill up until next day). Break eggs into a bowl; whisk broth mixture into eggs to blend well.

Place pan over medium heat (on a range, use 2 burners if pan overlaps 2). Add butter; when melted, pour eggs into pan. Let cook until eggs begin to turn opaque against pan bottom and sides. With a wide spatula, ripple cooked egg from pan, letting raw egg flow beneath. For creamiest texture, do not stir eggs, just push them aside. Cook until eggs are firm but still shiny-looking on top (they will be a salmonella-proof 160 [degrees]); 1/2 dozen eggs take about 5 minutes, 4 dozen eggs up to 20 minutes.

When eggs are cooked, quickly arrange toppings separately on them. To serve, spoon eggs and topping desired from pan. If kept warm over very low heat, eggs stay moist up to about 45 minutes.

Toppings

For each 6 eggs, allow a maximum of 2 cups; 12 eggs, 4 cups; 18 eggs, 6 cups; 24 eggs, 8 cups; 30 eggs, 10 cups; 36 eggs, 12 cups; 42 eggs, 14 cups; 48 eggs, 16 cups.

Choose from the following (or add your own favorites): cheese such as shredded mild to sharp cheddar, jack, fontina, asiago, or cumbled gorgonzola, cambozola, or domestic blue; browned meats such as cooked chopped bacon or Italian sausage; cold meats such as slivered prosciutto, cooked ham, cooked turkey or chicken; diced avocado; diced red, yellow, orange, or green bell peppers; slivered or chopped onions such as green onions, shallots, mild sweet onions, or chives; sliced ripe olives; salsa or diced tomatoes; sour cream or yogurt; inexpensive caviars; cooked mushrooms; fresh herbs like basil, tarragon, or parsley.