Fourteen blocks, a dozen cuisines. San Francisco's Mission District offers round-the-world opportunities for food exploring … bakeries, delis, restaurants, markets

Sunset, June, 1991

Fourteen blocks, a dozen cuisines Tour a dozen countries and never walk more than a mile? In San Francisco's Mission District, that's delightful reality. This south-side area happens to be the sunniest section of the city, drawing many cultures familiar with warm climates to settle here.

Mexican, Central American, Spanish, Indian, Greek, Middle Eastern, Italian, and Asian businesses floruish here. You might be surprised at the diversity of shops, delicatessesn, bakeries, restaurants, and markets. Many have been in this area for decades, offering a view into the history of San Francisco. You can buy ingredients and prepared foods in the Mission District that are hard to find elsewhere.

The quietest time to visit is during the week. However, if you want to experience the busy social street scene, come on weekends (some shops close on Sundays). Most shops open around 9.

Parking may be a problem. Many streets have confusing restrictions, so read the signs carefully; cars will be ticketed. Side streets between Guerrero and Valencia are a good bet. On 21st between Valencia and Mission is a public lot under a housing complex. If you walk the full length of 24th Street, you can return on city bus 48 (Quintaro); it runs every 10 minutes and costs 85 cents (exact change).

Shops are concentrated in three areas (see map on page 188; numbers correspond to the text): 12th Street between S. Van Ness Avenue and Hampshire Street, Mission Street between 19th and 26th streets, and Guerrero and Valencia streets north of 24th Street. Area code is 415.

S. Van Ness and east on 24th Street

The Irish occupied the area during the '40s, then the Spanish and Mexicans. Now the newest arrivals are Asians.

1. Viva, 1245 S. Van Ness Avenue (between 23rd and 24th); 282-0514. Previously a chain supermarket, this new store, under the same ownership, has been transformed to cater to a Hispanic population. Freshly made tortillas, thin beef steaks for carne asada, fresh and dry chilies are available. Open 24 hours a day.

2. Frutilandia, 3077 24th Street; 648-2958. Features Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine in a pleasant, coral-colored dining room. A small bar in the back offers fruit shakes, a house specialty. Hours are 11 to 9 Tuesdays through Sundays.

3. Dominiguez Bakery Flor de Jalisco, 2951 24th Street at Alabama; 821-1717. A traditional Mexican bakery where you serve yourself, choosing among yeast rolls, sweet pastries, and psychedelic-rainbow sugar cookies. This bakery was started in 1965, and Carmen Dominguez H. carries on her family's baking secrets. Open 8 to 8 daily.

4. La Victoria, 1205 Alabama Street (around the corner from La Victoria Bakery on 24th); 550-9309. Serves traditional Mexican specialties, such as delicious pozole (pork and hominy soup), in a very clean setting. Open 10:30 to 10 daily.

5. Casa Lucan Market, 2934 24th Street; 826-4334. Supplies ingredients for Caribbean, Central American, and Latin American cooking. The handsomely displayed produce has prices you can't beat. Open 8 to 8 daily.

6. La Palma Mexicatessen, 2884 24th Street; 647-1500. You'll find a good selection of dry chilies and other Central American spices and herbs. Handmade corn and flour tortillas are cooked to order. Open 8:30 A.M. to 9 P.M. Mondays through Saturdays, 8 to 5 Sundays.

7. Roosevelt Tamale Parlor, 2817 24th Street; 550-9213. At this location for 50 years, it features plump homemade tamales. Open 9 A.M. to 10 P.M. Tuesdays through Sundays.

8. St. Francis Fountain, 2801 24th at York Street; 826-4200. Old-fashioned fountain serves rich and creamy homemade ice cream in shakes, sundaes, and sodas. It also sells its own handmade chocolates. Open 10 to 9 weekdays, noon to 8 weekends.

9. Casa Sanchez, 2778 24th Street; 282-2400. Hunger-inducing smells come from this small, clean, friendly restaurant with the kitchen in the dining room. Prices are very reasonable. Hours are 10:30 to 9 daily except 10:30 to 5 Sundays.

Mission Street

Interspersed among the many Mexican businesses on this street, some other nationalities are represented.

10. Las Tinajas, 2338 Mission; 695-9933. Cafeteria-style restaurant serves home-style Nicaraguan food. Opn 11 to 6 Mondays through Thursdays, 11 to 7 Fridays and Saturdays.

11. Fina Estampa, 2374 Mission; 824-4437. This Peruvian restaurant offers beef and seafood dishes; some customers enjoy the deep-fried shrimp. Hours are 11:30 to 9 Tuesdays through Sundays.

12. Cafe Nidal, 2491 Mission; 285-4334. Middle Eastern specialties include falafel, hummus, and baklava. Open 7 to 7 Mondays through Fridays, 8 to 5 Saturdays.

13. Dianda's Italian American Pastry, 2883 Mission; 647-5469. This bakery is well known for its panettone and almond torte; both come in small to crowd-size portions. Some patrons claim that Dianda's has the best eclairs in the city. Open 7 to 6 Mondays through Saturdays, 7 to 5 Sundays.

14. Samiramis Imports, 2990 Mission; 824-6555. A small shop filled with Middle Eastern food products, African spices, European cookies and candies, and leather-topped ceramic drums. Try the roasted and seasoned chickpeas and melon seeds, a Middle Eastern snack. Open 10 to 6 Mondays through Saturdays.