What's new in cookware? A lot

Sunset, Dec, 1992 by Elaine Johnson, Karyn I. Lipman

Here's the scoop on choosing rangetop cookware ... for your own use or for a gift

LOOKING FOR NEW cookware? These days, there's a pan to suit every need and style, from flashy to functional, heavy-duty "professional" to lightweight budget. And there are finishes and coatings to consider. What's the best choice? It all depends on you. The perfect pan for one cook may drive another cook crazy.

EVALUATING YOUR NEEDS

Every pan has pros and cons. Appearance and price may be your starting point, but you should also consider materials and construction. To help you select pans that will best suit your needs, consider these questions:

What type of cooktop do you have? Not all pans work well on all cooktops. You can use any kind of cookware on electric coil and gas ranges (glass-ceramic cookware, however, performs best on gas cooktops). Electric radiant, halogen, and solid-element ranges need heavy, flat-bottomed pans, while induction ranges require magnetic pans--cast iron, carbon steel, or some types of stainless. (Before choosing pans, check the individual range manufacturer's recommendations.)

Match pans to burner sizes for the most even cooking, and to safeguard cooktops and pan handles.

How important are durability and heat conductivity? How long do you want your pans to last--a lifetime, or just until you're tired of the way they look? Are you willing to pay more for good materials and construction?

For many cooks, the most important consideration is a pan's heat conductivity--that is, its ability to quickly and evenly transfer heat from a burner throughout the pan. Materials, especially those that are used in the pan's bottom, are key in determining this quality.

What about design? Do shape, balance, and weight work together for good function? Does the pan sit steady when empty--or does it tip? Are the handles heat resistant and easy to grip? Does the pan feel balanced and comfortable in your hands? Will a filled, heavy pan be a burden to maneuver?

How do you cook? Do you want a pan for every chore, or will a few standard pans suffice? Do you need a pan with a nonstick finish? Do you prefer a pan with sensitive heat response, say for cooking delicate fish, or a fairly heavy pan that browns meat and cooks pancakes evenly?

What are you willing to spend? Materials, construction, and design influence cost. Pans made to last generally cost more. Warranties on less expensive pans may exclude a key component, like a nonstick coating.

MATERIALS

Cookware is made from a variety of materials, sometimes used singly, sometimes in combination. Here we detail the properties of the five most common pan materials.

ALUMINUM

Basics. Aluminum's heat conductivity is second only to copper's. Aluminum pans are versatile, and come in a wide range of prices and styles.

On the down side, aluminum is soft and scratchable. If salty or acidic foods have long contact with aluminum, they can pit it and pick up a metallic flavor. Therefore, most aluminum pans have a nonstick or anodized surface.

FIVE BASIC MATERIALS

Copper

* Best heat conductor

* Beautiful, expensive, heavy

* Must be hand-washed

* Requires frequent polishing

* Pictured pan's stainless steel liner adds durability

Stainless Steel

* Poor heat conductor alone

* Shiny, low maintenance, lightweight, dishwasher-safe

* Wide price range

* Pictured pan has an aluminum disk that improves heat conduction

Glass-Ceramic

* Poor heat conductor but, once hot, retains heat well

* Can go from freezer to rangetop and back

* Can chip. Dishwasher-safe

* Pictured pan has a nonstick coating

Aluminum

* Excellent heat control

* Lightweight to heavy

* Wide price range. Most are nonstick or anodized

* Pictured anodized pan is abrasion resistant. Must be hand-washed

Cast Iron

* Poor heat conductor but, once hot, retains heat well

* Heavy. Wide price range

* Must be hand-washed

* Pans come uncoated, preseasoned, or enameled

* Pictured uncoated pan must be seasoned

THREE OPTIONS FOR COOKWARE FINISHES

Acrylic

* Used on inexpensive aluminum pans

* Scratches easily, can stain

* Pictured pan has colorful acrylic finish

Porcelain Enamel

* Colorful and durable (but it can chip)

* Goes on cast iron, carbon steel, or aluminum

* Pictured cast-iron pan is enameled inside and out

Nonstick

* Pan base can be any material and can range from lightweight to heavy

* Short- to long-life coating (see discussion)

* Wide price range. Many are dishwasher-safe

* Pictured pan's barely visible textured coating withstands wear from metal utensils

Anodizing is an electro-chemical process that permanently changes the pan surface, making it harder and abrasion resistant, and sometimes less reactive (depending on the brand). Calphalon and Magnalite Professional are anodized pans.

Does uncoated aluminum cookware have any connection to Alzheimer's disease? Both the Alzheimer's Association and the Food and Drug Administration say there is no conclusive evidence of any direct effect. Most experts agree that aluminum intake from pans is small; we ingest more aluminum from things like antacids and buffered aspirin.