Aspen or Vail: why not both? - Colorado - includes related articles

Sunset, Dec, 1993 by Lora J. Finnegan

TRAVELING BETWEEN THE TWO SKI TOWNS IS EASIER THAN EVER

What a delicious dilemma. Should you succumb to the allure of Aspen--endless runs on four varied ski mountains, the beauty of the Roaring Fork Valley, and a Victorian mine town dusted by snow? Or give in to the charms of Vail--a cozy village at the base of a massive ski mountain with powder-laden back bowls, set dramatically against the Gore Range? Colorado's two famed rival resorts present vacationers with the kind of choice diners face when torn between two mouth-watering desserts.

Why not have a slice of each? One former obstacle, the slow and sometimes treacherous stretch of black-ice highway through Glenwood Canyon on the Vail-to-Aspen drive, has been virtually eliminated with the completion of a wide new 12-mile segment of Interstate 70 through the canyon. Driving the entire V-shaped route from Vail west to Glenwood Springs and south to Aspen now takes only about 2 hours (about an hour less than on the twisty old road).

Another obstacle to sampling both Vail and Aspen has been expense. But you can detour the high-cost route if you plan wisely and early to take advantage of package deals. You can reserve rooms at reasonable rates in even the most popular lodges during off-peak season (now through December 21 and in January, when bookings slow down). There is also a surprising variety of inexpensive alternatives to skiing, from strolling through picturesque towns to snowshoeing through a nature preserve.

The easiest way to go is to fly directly into either Aspen or Eagle/Vail airport (via Denver or Salt Lake City). But you'll get a lower airfare by flying to Denver or Grand Junction and driving a rental car to the resorts. Every major domestic air carrier serves Denver; the city's new airport, scheduled to open mid-winter, promises fewer weather-caused delays and easier connections. Flying into Grand Junction (served by four carriers) lets you drive in from the west, avoiding the necessity of scaling any high passes.

USER-FRIENDLY VAIL, EXCLUSIVE BEAVER CREEK

Nestled in a narrow cleft of the Gore Range, downtown Vail is compact and normally pretty quiet. But in winter, its population of fewer than 4,000 people balloons to more than 20,000 with seasonal residents and ski-toting visitors. Yet, thanks to an efficient system of free shuttle buses and a pedestrian-only core, the town seems to handle the crowd well. Purists may scoff at its pseudo-Tyrolean architecture, all built in the last 31 years (one wag dubbed it "shake-and-bake Bavaria"), but to those happily wandering its snowy cobbled streets and attractive plazas the question of authenticity seems a non-issue. And because the town is so compact, you can easily walk or shuttle to an astonishing variety of shopping and dining options: there are 243 shops and 77 restaurants within the confines of Vail Valley.

To the skier, Vail dangles the lure of North America's largest single ski mountain, broadly diverse ski terrain, and outstanding instruction programs. On the downside, it's so close to Denver that it gets crowded on weekends with day-trippers.

Many locals avoid the crowds by getting an early start (sometimes aided by an espresso stop at The Daily Grind on Bridge Street), skiing their socks off, and then leaving the mountain by 3 to beat the crowds down. That leaves plenty of time for people-watching from window tables at Sweet Basil (193 E. Gore Creek Drive, 303/476-0125) and perhaps a plate of the restaurant's incredible creme brulee dessert. Shopping buffs might then amble down the street to check out the ski togs at Gorsuch Ltd. (263 E. Gore Creek Drive), a local institution.

Another spot in town that's worth looking into is The Colorado Ski Heritage Museum (third level of Vail Village Parking Structure). It presents a fun look at skiing's early equipment, its unpretentious pioneers, and pre-boom Vail and Aspen.

Beyond skiing, winter sports abound, from bobsledding on the ski hill to dogsled tours to hot-air balloon rides. For a real wild West experience, head out to The 4 Eagle Ranch in Wolcott (about a 25-minute drive west of Vail), where you can ride horseback over snowy hills (call 926-3372 to reserve). Wildlife fanciers can join Nova Guides (949-4232) for a 3-hour van tour through the back hills and canyons in search of elk and eagles.

Just west of Vail lies handsome Beaver Creek, tucked back in a valley with a guarded gate at the mouth and a somewhat exclusive air throughout. Vail's newer sister resort boasts state-of-the-art facilities, from a people-mover ramp that takes ski school kiddies to the top of the bunny hill to interactive computer screens at the ski hill base for trail conditions and shopping and dining suggestions. The resort is also expanding its offerings to the snowboarding crowd with a half-pipe, lessons, and clinics.

Even if you don't plan to hit the slopes, Beaver Creek is worth a side trip just to see the impressive bronze and ice sculptures that decorate the village. Dining choices have expanded recently (there are now 22 bars and restaurants at Beaver Creek), but plan on forking out a lot of money at most of them. Parking is limited and expensive in the village itself; it's better to park in the lot at U.S. Highway 6/24 and Village Road and ride a free shuttle in. For information on events, shops, lodging, and dining, call the Vail Valley Tourism and Convention Bureau at (800) 525-3875 or (303) 476-1000.