Inspired by a winner, moved by the wind - bird feeder

Sunset, June, 1994 by Peter O. Whiteley

This wedge-shaped bird feeder pivots like a weather vane

YOU DON'T NEED A weatherman to know which way the wind is blowing when you have a bird feeder like this one. It was inspired by Ken Erdman's award-winner in our bird feeder contest that also pivots in the wind to shelter snacking birds but is considerably more challenging to build. Like the original, ours has a rooftop birdbath, long fins to catch the wind, transparent side walls, and a pivoting base support. Our modified model, however, has a sleeker wedge shape, and takes less wood and fewer tools to build.

GETTING STARTED

To build this bird feeder, you'll need a circular saw for straight cuts and a saber saw for cutting curves, an electric drill and sander for finish work, a pair of bar clamps for gluing, a hammer, a tape measure, and a metal yardstick or framing square. Use a fine-tooth saw blade to cut the acrylic plastic.

Start by cutting the factory-milled edges off the redwood 1-by-12 so it measures 11 inches wide. Next cut the board into two 24-inch lengths. Also, cut the redwood 1-by-4 into two 1-inch-wide strips and cut the fins from the plywood.

Cut the acrylic plastic sheet into two 9-by-20-inch rectangles, leaving the protective film covering in place. Draw a line 3/8 of an inch in from each of the edges of the long sides of each rectangle. Starting 2 inches from one end, mark and drill holes spaced 4 inches on center along the line, using a drill bit slightly wider than the shank of the brass screws.

The triangular top and bottom are each made by cutting the 1-by-12 boards in half on the diagonal: Mark a point on an outside edge 1/2 inch from one end and repeat on the diagonally opposite edge. Connect these points and cut along the line. Use the top angle of one of these pieces as a guide for marking and cutting a matching angle at one end of each of the 1-inch-wide screw strips. Glue each pair of rough triangles together to form an isosceles triangle. Align the top points--don't worry if the bases aren't exactly even.

Next, trim the base of each triangle; one will be smaller than the other. Measuring along each of the long sides of one triangle, mark points 24 inches from the apex. On the other triangle, mark points 20 inches from the apex. Cut along the line connecting each pair of points.

Overlay the narrow wood strips on the smaller triangle so their angled ends butt together at the apex. Align them flush with the sides, then mark and trim their uncut ends to be flush with the triangle's base.

Center, draw, and cut a hole in the top (the larger piece) that's just wide enough so the saucer can hang from its lip. Start the cut by drilling a small hole just inside the circle. Save the cutout circle (it becomes the circular base to which you will mount the lazy susan glide).

Place the top triangle face down on a work surface. Lay the smaller bottom triangle on it, 1/2 inch in from the long sides, and trace its shape onto the larger triangle. Remove the small triangle and place the wood strips on the inside of the line, butting their pointed ends together. Glue and nail them in position (2).

Finish the redwood parts with a penetrating oil sealer. Sand the fins, rounding the corners, and seal or paint.

PUTTING IT TOGETHER

Position the two acrylic plastic sides along the long edges of the bottom piece so their ends butt together at the apex, and hold them together with strips of masking tape. Using the predrilled holes in the acrylic as guides, drill holes into the edges of the wood, and secure each side with screws (3). Slip the top in position and follow the same steps to secure it with screws. Glue the acrylic ends together, and fill the V-shaped void with a bead of silicone caulk.

Apply a thick bead of silicone caulk under the rim of the saucer and gently set it in the hole cut in the top.

Near the narrow point of each tail fin, drill a pair of holes spaced 4 inches apart and 3/8 inch from the edge of the 23-inch side. Attach each one to the feeder using the rear-most two screws securing the acrylic plastic sides to the bottom triangle (4).

Center the lazy susan glide on the circle of wood cut out for the saucer hole. Notice that there are holes for screws in both of the rotating plates. Screw one plate to the wood circle (5). In order to mount the other plate to the underside of the feeder, you'll need to make a notch in the wood circle to allow access to screw holes at the corners of the other plate.

Find the balance point of the feeder (we rested the feeder on the point of an oil can spout) and mark its location on the underside. Center the rotating base over the balance point. Drill and screw it to the feeder.

Mount the feeder to a post or pipe in an open area. To hold it to the top of a post, use metal L-brackets or remove the rotating base, screw it onto the post, and remount the feeder. To hold it to a pipe, run screws through a galvanized flange fitting and into the circular base plate.

Materials:

* 4-foot-long redwood 1-by-12

* 2-foot-long redwood 1-by-4