What's new with Western goat cheese? - includes recipes

Sunset, June, 1994 by Elaine Johnson

Many more cheesemakers, greater availability, and new choices--from flavored soft to hard grating types

IN THE SUNNY CHEESE room at Sea Stars Goat Cheese in Santa Cruz, California, the air smells sweet and tangy. As owner Nancy Gaffney scoops white curds from a stainless steel tank into cheesecloth bags, the only sound is the steady drip of the yellow whey as it drains from the hanging bags. A vase of blue and fuchsia bachelor's buttons decorates the windowsill; after Gaffney salts and shapes the curds, she will sprinkle them with petals to make her Monet cheese. Outside, all that separates Gaffney from the bright Pacific are goats with names like Champagne and Artemis, more flowers, and a field of emerald green brussels sprouts. "Just another day in paradise!" she laughs.

Twenty years ago, you would have had to go to Europe to find a scene like this. Handcrafted goat cheeses were an imported novelty. Now, the West's goat cheesemakers number more than 20, and their cheeses encompass a wide range of styles. Seasonal production is reaching its peak, making this a great time to check out the new options.

Most Western goat cheesemakers started out making mild, soft fresh logs. These still dominate the market, but there's an enormous variety of other types: soft cheeses flavored with everything from jalapenos to cranberries; layered tortes like dried tomato-basil; and varieties usually associated with cow's milk, such as cheddar, jack, and mozzarella. There are even aged goat cheeses in the parmesan style that develop nuttier, stronger flavors, and surface-ripened cheeses reminiscent of brie.

Some adventurous styles--such as Sea Star's Monet, or aged goat cheese wrapped in grape leaves by Sally Jackson in Oroville, Washington--are unique to the cheesemaker and may be available only locally. While a few tiny companies sell just at regional farmers' markets, larger operations sell throughout the West in upscale grocery and specialty stores and health food stores. Some sell by mail.

Expect to pay about $3.50 for a 4-ounce fresh goat cheese log and up to $20 per pound for specialty cheeses. Limited production brings up the price; also, goats give less milk than cows, and produce it seasonally, drying up in the winter before they kid.

What about nutrition? Softer cheeses have the fewest calories, about 76 an ounce; as cheeses get firmer (and water content decreases), calories, fat, protein, and cholesterol are concentrated.

Mary Keehn, owner of Cypress Grove Chevre in McKinleyville, California, gives the best reason to enjoy Western goat cheeses: "You're not going to get this variety or flavorful excitement in factory-made cheeses. It's like looking at a print versus an original work of art--there's no comparison."

SHOPPING, USING, AND STORING

* At the store, soft fresh goat cheese should look moist. Reject if air-bloated, moldy, or leaking whey. Semisoft and hard cheeses shouldn't be dry or cracked. Minor mold can be trimmed, but it indicates a lack of freshness. Surface-ripened cheeses should have a very white bloom (unless a blue style) with no cracks; odor can be mild to pungent, but not ammonia-like.

* Enjoy goat cheeses on their own, served at room temperature for fullest flavor. Or use them in cooking; some styles melt better than others.

* In the refrigerator, protect cheeses from air with original wrappings, plastic wrap, or waxed paper. Keep blue types in separate containers. Discard cheeses that develop an off-odor, strange colors, or more than a touch of mold.

10 WAYS TO ENJOY SOFT GOAT CHEESE

* Spread on toast or bagels, and add jam or lox.

* Substitute for cream cheese in dips.

* Swirl or layer with pesto to spread on crackers.

* Sandwich with sliced smoked turkey and arugula on black bread.

* Top green salads with crumbled cheese, or with slices briefly warmed in the oven.

* Dab over pizza.

* Stuff into seeded mild fresh chilies; broil until golden.

* Stir into hot bean or vegetable soups.

* Layer into lasagne.

* Sweeten with powdered sugar, honey, or jam. Add a little amaretto or brandy, and lemon peel. Spoon onto blintzes or nut breads, or serve with fruit.

Fresh Herbs-Cheese Plate

Try this after-dinner cheese plate with contrasting cheeses, such as soft fresh, semisoft, and surface-ripened.

This presentation was a collaboration by San Francisco chefs Elka Gilmore of ELKA and Traci des Jardins of Rubicon with cheesemaker Laura Chenel, for an International Association of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs event.

1 cup Italian parsley leaves

1 cup fresh chervil (or more parsley)

1/4 cup small (1 to 2 in.) fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup 1 1/2-inch pieces chives

2 tablespoons thinly sliced shallots

1 tablespoons walnut oil

2 teaspoons champagne or white wine vinegar Salt and pepper

1/2 to 3/4 pound (total of 3 different types at room temperature) goat cheeses

Thinly sliced dense bread such as walnut, date, or sourdough

Rinse, dry, and chill parsley, chervil, basil, and chives to crisp. In a bowl, combine shallots, oil, and vinegar. Add herb leaves, mix gently, and season to taste with salt and pepper.