The Midas touch for ribs - recipes

Sunset, June, 1994 by Joan Griffiths, Richard Dunmire

And an onion salad that's pure poetry

MEDIEVAL ALCHEMISTS tried to transmute lead into gold. Every chef who barbecues ribs is engaging in a similar endeavor, attempting to transform a base material--visually the least promising portion of the carcass--into gustatory gold. The difference is that many chefs, like Chris Osserman, succeed.

Killer Ribs

About 5 pounds pork loin back ribs

1 large (10 oz.) onion, coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon dried basil leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice

1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 or 2 teaspoons crushed dried hot red chilies

3 dried bay leaves

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 can (about 1 lb.) sliced peaches, drained

1 bottle (18 oz.) prepared barbecue sauce

Trim and discard excess fat from ribs. Place ribs in an 8- to 10-quart pan; add onion, cinnamon, basil, allspice, ginger, 1 teaspoon of the chilies, bay leaves, and garlic. Fill pan with just enough water to cover ribs. Put lid on pan and bring water to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until meat is tender when pierced, about 50 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor, puree peaches. Stir peaches to mix with barbecue sauce and remaining 1 teaspoon chilies.

Drain ribs; lay on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium-hot coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Baste frequently with peach sauce and turn ribs as needed to develop a rich brown glaze, about 20 minutes. Pour remaining sauce into a bowl. Cut ribs between bones and accompany ribs with more sauce added to taste. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Per serving: 601 cal. (63 percent from fat); 35 g protein; 42 g fat (15 g sat.); 20 g carbo.; 662 mg sodium; 161 mg chol.

A THOUSAND POETS HAVE sung the praises of the rose, but so far as we know only Robert Louis Stevenson has eulogized the onion in verse. In "To a Gardener," he writes:

First let the onion flourish there, Rose among roots, the maiden-fair Wine-scented and poetic soul Of the capacious salad bowl.

Don Lavoy, obviously moved by the same sentiments, created this onion salad.

Walla Walla Salad

1 large (about 1 1/4 lb.) head romaine lettuce

1/2 medium-size (6 oz.) Walla Walla, Maui, or other sweet onion

1/2 cup diced red or yellow bell pepper

1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 can (2 oz.) anchovy fillets

1 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

Rinse, drain, and crisp romaine leaves. Cut leaves into 1-inch-wide strips. Coarsely chop onion. In a salad bowl, combine lettuce, onion, bell pepper, blue cheese, vinegar, and oil from anchovies. Chop anchovies and add to salad along with garlic to taste; mix well. Serves 8 to 10.

Per serving: 43 cal. (38 percent from fat); 3.5 g protein; 1.8 g fat (0.9 g sat.); 3.5 g carbo.; 234 mg sodium; 5.8 mg chol.