Romancing the ranchos - ranch-type resorts in San Diego County, California

Sunset, Dec, 1994 by Jeff Book

Three San Diego County inns make perfect winter getaways

SUBURBIA MARCHES on in northern San Diego County, but tucked among the sere inland hills are aging missions, mature citrus and avocado groves, and well-worn horse trails that hark back to an older California. One can easily picture colonial grandees and dashing vaqueros living here. Their echoes can be heard at a trio of north-county resorts that evoke the romance of the rancho days in name, architecture, and casual style.

The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe, Rancho Valencia Resort, and Rancho Bernardo Inn are within a few miles of each other, about 25 miles north of downtown San Diego. All boast red tile roofs, traditional decor, lush landscaped grounds, and posh cuisine. The area's year-round mild climate, away from coastal fog, makes these places especially popular with golf and tennis buffs. Although the resorts can serve as elegant base camps for exploring north San Diego County (for visitor information, call 800/848-3336), many guests don't stray far, content to enjoy the facilities--and their rancho reveries. The grandees never had it so good.

The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe. In 1906 the Santa Fe Railroad purchased an old Mexican land-grant rancho and planted it with 3 million eucalyptus trees. When the wood proved unfit for railroad ties, the company began selling lots. In 1924 architect Lilian Rice designed what is now the Inn at Rancho Santa Fe, which over the years has grown to include 90 guest rooms and cottages on 20 eucalyptus-shaded acres. The varied accommodations--many with fireplaces, kitchenettes, and secluded patios--range from compact doubles to two- and three-bedroom cottages.

The inn maintains a seaside cottage in Del Mar for guest use, but there's no shortage of activities close to home: miles of walking trails, three tennis courts, a croquet course, a gym, a heated swimming pool, and golfing privileges at several area courses.

The inn is at 5951 Linea del Cielo in Rancho Santa Fe. Rates range from $85 to $485. For reservations, call (800) 654-2928.

Rancho Valencia Resort. Rancho Valencia, also in Rancho Santa Fe, has 20 casitas holding 43 spacious suites, each with a fireplace, private garden patio, and wet bar. A bridge across a sage-scented arroyo leads to 18 tennis courts and a pro shop.

The 40-acre property also features a heated swimming pool and whirlpools, a croquet course, a spa and fitness center, and playing privileges at four adjacent golf courses. Spa cuisine is offered, although most diners (including the Clintons, earlier this year) opt for the richer California-Mediterranean fare.

Rancho Valencia is at 5921 Valencia Circle in Rancho Santa Fe. Rates range from $295 to $790. For reservations, call (800) 548-3664.

Rancho Bernardo Inn. If the conquistadors had packed golf clubs and cleats, they might not have made it any farther north than the Rancho Bernardo Inn, a few miles southeast of Rancho Santa Fe. There are 45 holes on site, with another 63 at courses within a 30-minute drive.

But any place whose slogan is "The way the world is supposed to be" must offer more than golf. Guests staying in any of the resort's 287 rooms (including 58 suites) can serve aces on 12 tennis courts, swim laps in two pools, and pump iron at a fitness center complete with saunas and steam rooms. During holiday periods, there's even a program for kids called Camp R. B. I. This year, it runs from December 22 through January 1.

Rancho Bernardo Inn is at 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive in San Diego. Rates range from $135 to $600. For reservations, call (800) 542-6096.