Something for everyone - recipe

Sunset, Dec, 1994 by Christine Weber Hale

A new family, a new way to cook, a new tart

When I was growing up, my family treated eating as a wonderful adventure--an opportunity to experience new foods, different cultures, and interesting flavor combinations. However, when I became host of my own parties, I quickly learned that a culinary onslaught of quail eggs, ancho chilies, and mizuna is not always met with equal enthusiasm. Some of my early exotic menus generated more confusion than appetite. So I moved ahead, working to balance the new, for my enjoyment, with the familiar, for the comfort of my more timid friends.

It was good training for the future. I married into a family with divergent tastes and lots of young nieces and nephews; my balancing act has expanded to include dishes for a wide range of ages, too. This need to please so many at once inspired my split-personality appetizer tart. Half is topped with tried-and-true cheese and mushrooms; the other half has more daring ingredients.

I make one dish, it bridges all tastes, and everybody is happy.

50/50 Appetizer Tart

1 1/2 ounces (about 1 1/2 cups) dried porcini mushrooms

1 package (17 1/4 oz.) frozen puff pastry dough, thawed

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 pound fresh common mushrooms, rinsed and sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon minced fresh or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried sage

About 1 cup thinly cut strips red bell pepper

1 cup (1/4 lb.) shredded cheddar cheese

2 green onions, ends trimmed, chopped

1/3 pound soft chevre cheese

2 tablespoons prepared pesto sauce

2 to 3 ounces arugula, stems pinched off, rinsed and crisped

Fresh sage sprigs

Place porcini in a small bowl; add boiling water to cover. Let stand until mushrooms are soft, at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

On a lightly floured board, lay out the 2 puff pastry sheets so that they overlap 1/2 inch on a narrow edge; firmly press edges together. Cut dough to make a 16-inch-long piece; reserve scrap for other uses. Roll out dough to widen to a 13- by 16-inch rectangle; trim edges with a knife to make straight. Gently transfer dough to a 14- by 17-inch baking sheet. Pierce dough all over with a fork. Bake on lowest rack in a 350 [degrees] oven until puffed and golden brown on bottom, about 20 minutes. Use hot or lukewarm, or let cool, cover, and chill up to 1 day. (If chilled, return to oven for 10 minutes before continuing.)

Meanwhile, in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, melt 1/2 the butter. Add common mushrooms, 1/2 the garlic, and the minced sage. Stir often until mushrooms are well browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer mixture to a small bowl. Wipe pan clean.

Gently rub porcini in water to release any grit, then lift from water; discard liquid. Pat porcini with towels to lightly dry; set aside any large attractive pieces and mince remainder. In frying pan, melt remaining butter over medium-high heat. Add porcini and remaining garlic. Stir often until garlic begins to brown, about 7 minutes. If making ahead, cover mixtures and chill up to 1 day.

On warm pastry, lay bell pepper strips in a straight line diagonally from 2 opposite corners. On 1 triangle of pastry, sprinkle cheddar cheese, then scatter common mushrooms and green onions over cheese. Break soft chevre into small pieces and scatter over the other pastry triangle; spread gently to fill space. Top chevre with pesto and spread over cheese. Lay arugula leaves on pastry to cover pesto, and scatter with porcini. Bake tart in a 350 [degrees] oven until cheddar melts, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer tart to a platter. Garnish with arugula leaves and sage sprigs. Cut into squares. Serves 12.

Per serving: 289 cal. (65 percent from fat); 8.1 g protein; 21 g fat (6.9 g sat.); 18 g carbo.; 220 mg sodium; 21 mg chol.