Who knows how many guests there will be? - recipes

Sunset, Dec, 1994 by Jerry Anne di Vecchio

No forks, no plates--lean salads to nibble can be appetizers or dinner

To make it onto a party menu in our house, dishes have to meet some tough standards, especially for the come-and-go gathering that we particularly enjoy. Here are the primary criteria: foods stay fresh for several hours; are self-serve; can be eaten with the fingers; require no last-minute attention and few, if any, touch-ups; are as lean as they can be; and, of course, taste great.

During the holiday season, we place added demands on our menus. Many friends have family visiting; our guest lists frequently swell to accommodate them. And the nature of a party can change on a whim, too. We may decide to snack lightly, then move on to a restaurant, or pitch the tent and stay home. So dishes frequently switch roles from appetizer to whole meal or back again, and leftover elements often get rolled into other occasions.

This pair of salads--one chicken, the other couscous--does a good job shifting gears. Both are extremely low in fat, and the couscous one accommodates my vegetarian friends. The salads are refreshingly seasoned and do well as appetizers. But they can also become an instant meal to share in a communal Middle Eastern style--from a low coffee table without plates or forks. You scoop small bites of salad onto tender lettuce leaves.

Chicken and Couscous Salads in Leaf Cups

4 cups tiny, torn or cut pieces skinned cooked chicken

Tinted onions (directions follow)

1 1/2 cups orange segments (cut from membrane)

1 1/2 cups chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

Orange-lime dressing (directions follow)

Spiced couscous (directions follow)

Salt

1 tablespoon finely shredded orange peel (colored part only)

Salad leaves (directions follow)

Thin orange slices (optional)

Mix chicken, tinted onions, orange segments, 3/4 cup cilantro, and 1/2 the orange-lime dressing. Mix remaining dressing with the spiced couscous. Season both salads to taste with salt, then mound chicken salad and couscous salad in wide shallow bowls, or in separate mounds on a large rimmed platter. Sprinkle remaining cilantro over chicken; sprinkle orange peel over couscous. Mound leaves in a separate container, or arrange around salads. Garnish with orange slices. To serve, invite guests to spoon bite-size portions of salad onto leaves. Makes 6 to 8 main-dish or 12 to 16 appetizer servings.

Per main-dish serving: 419 cal. (17 percent from fat); 32 g protein; 7.7 g fat (1.7 g sat.); 56 g carbo.; 108 mg sodium; 62 mg chol.

Tinted onions. Cut 1 medium-size (5 or 6 oz.) red onion into thin, short slivers. Bring 6 cups water and 1/4 cup rice vinegar to boiling in a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat. Add onion and 1 teaspoon cumin seed. Let cook, uncovered, until boil resumes. Drain in a fine strainer; let onion and seed cool. Use, or cover and chill up to 1 day.

Orange-lime dressing. Combine 1 1/2 cups orange juice and 1 cup lime juice with 1/4 cup minced fresh ginger, and 1 teaspoon crushed dried hot red chilies. Use, or if making ahead, cover and chill up to 6 hours.

Spiced couscous. In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine 3 cups regular-strength chicken broth, 2 tablespoons mustard seed, 1 1/2 teaspoons coriander seed, 1 teaspoon cumin seed, 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, 1 teaspoon curry powder, and 1/8 teaspoon hulled cardamom seed. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer 5 minutes, then add 2 cups couscous. Stir, remove from heat, and cover. Let stand until cool. Stir with a fork to separate couscous pieces. Use, or if making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day.

Salad leaves. Use inner romaine leaves and larger, unbruised outer leaves, broken in 1/2 lengthwise, and tender butter lettuce leaves; you will need about 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 pounds total edible leaves. Rinse leaves, drain, and wrap in towels; enclose in a large plastic bag and chill at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.