Feasts from the grill … salmon, turkey, chicken, and more - includes recipes

Sunset, June, 1995

Take your pick and match them with salads of potatoes, brown rice, barley, lentils, and quinoa

Timing. It's always a challenge, especially after a stressful day or when guests are expected. But here's an easy way to stay in control. Less than a half-hour before you plan to eat, fire up the barbecue - allow about 20 minutes for charcoal, 10 for gas. Then put the star of the meal on to grill. The moment it's perfectly cooked, bring forth a platter partially laden with a handsome, made-ahead salad - filling enough to complete the main part of the meal - and place the hot entree alongside.

Such a presentation is even more appealing when it's seasonal and low in fat: brown sugar- and soy-glazed salmon, smoke-enriched corn and tomatoes, apricot-basted turkey breast, yogurt-marinated spicy chicken legs, and citrus-chutney pork tenderloin all meet these standards.

The salads - made with potatoes, brown rice, barley, lentils, or quinoa, and full of fresh summer produce - stand well on their own and can be prepared a day ahead.

Grilled Salmon with Potato and Watercress Salad

3 pounds small (each about 2 in. wide) red thin-skinned potatoes 1 cup thinly sliced red onion 1 cup seasoned rice vinegar About 1/2 pound watercress, rinsed and crisped 1 salmon fillet, about 2 pounds 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar 2 cups alder or mesquite wood chips, soaked in water Salt

In a 5- to 6-quart pan, bring about 2 quarts water to a boil over high heat; add potatoes. Cover and simmer over low heat until potatoes are tender when pierced, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and immerse in cold water. When potatoes are cool, drain well. Use or, if making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day.

Soak the onions about 15 minutes in cold water to cover. Drain and mix onions with rice vinegar. Cut potatoes in quarters; add to onions.

Trim tender watercress sprigs from stems, then finely chop enough of the coarse stems to make 1/2 cup (discard extras or save for other uses). Mix chopped stems with potato salad. Mound watercress sprigs on a large oval platter with potato salad alongside; cover and keep cool.

Rinse salmon and pat dry. Place, skin side down, on a piece of heavy foil. Cut foil to follow outlines of fish, leaving a 1-inch border. Crimp edges of foil to fit up against edge of fish. Mix soy sauce with brown sugar and brush onto the salmon fillet.

On a charcoal barbecue. Mound and ignite 50 to 60 charcoal briquets on the firegrate of a barbecue with lid. When briquets are spotted with gray ash, about 20 minutes, bank 1/2 of the coals on each side of the fire-grate. Drain wood chips and sprinkle equally onto mounds of coals. Place grill 4 to 6 inches above coals.

On a gas barbecue. Turn gas heat to high. Place wood chips in the barbecue's metal smoking box or in a small shallow foil pan, and set directly on the heat in a corner. Close lid until barbecue is hot, about 10 minutes. Adjust gas for indirect cooking (no heat down center).

Lay fish on center of grill, not over coals or flame. Cover barbecue (open vents for charcoal) and cook until fish is barely opaque in thickest part (cut to test), 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer fish to a platter with salad. Add salt to taste. Serve hot or cool. Makes 6 servings.

Per serving: 439 cal. (19 percent from fat); 34 g protein; 9.4 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 54 g carbo.; 1,062 mg sodium; 77 mg chol.

Grilled Corn with Mushroom Pilaf

1 teaspoon olive oil 1/2 cup thinly silvered shallots 1/2 pound mushrooms, thinly sliced 3 cups packaged precooked long-grain brown rice 3 1/2 cups vegetable broth or regular-strength chicken broth 1/2 cup lemon juice 3 tablespoons drained capers, chopped 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 3/4 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper 1 large (about 3/4 lb.) red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves or parsley Large romaine lettuce leaves, rinsed and crisped 6 medium-size (about 10 oz. each) ears of corn 6 large (about 1/4 lb. each) Roma-style tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise Salt

Pour oil into a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat; add shallots and mushrooms, and stir until mushrooms begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in rice and 2 1/2 cups broth; bring to boiling over high heat. Cover and simmer over low heat until rice is tender to bite, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool.

Combine 1 cup broth, lemon juice, capers, mustard, and ground pepper. If making ahead, cover and chill caper dressing and rice mixture separately up to 1 day.

Stir 3/4 cup caper dressing, bell pepper, and basil into rice mixture. Line a large platter with lettuce leaves. Mound rice salad on lettuce; cover and keep salad cool.

Pull husks back from corn, leaving attached; discard silks, and rinse ears. Lay corn and tomatoes on a hot barbecue grill over a solid bed of hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Turn corn and tomatoes as needed to speckle with brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Place corn and tomatoes on platter beside rice salad. Spoon remaining dressing over corn, tomatoes, and mushroom pilaf. Add salt to taste. Makes 6 servings.