How to make a good party better - includes related articles - includes recipes

Sunset, Dec, 1995 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

My client wants a nice -- but instant -- lunch for 250 guests. A typical problem," says Joann Roth at Someone's in the Kitchen. Her solution: a menu that's ready and waiting -- cold poached salmon, room-temperature salads, and a beautiful arrangement of individual desserts in the center of the tables.

Roth and the rest of the dozen-plus party planners whom we quizzed for entertaining advice have a plan for success. Foremost, they all favor their not-so-secret dishes that consistently win raves from a broad audience. These dishes have qualities that are as important to home cooks as to caterers. Many are surprisingly simple, and most have make-ahead steps that can be crammed into holiday schedules.

Two other hardworking caterer homilies: be flexible, and be prepared to adapt. If you don't have time to make a dish or an element of it, can you buy it? Will purchased pesto fill in for homemade? No time to make dessert? Buy one. If you're a baker, bake breads ahead and store them in the freezer. Otherwise, take advantage of handsome loaves at the market.

But perhaps the most valuable professional advice for a good party is: keep it simple. Avoid foods that take a lot of last-minute attention and detailed handling. When in doubt, serve a nice big roast. Meat as a centerpiece may sound tame, but, say the caterers, it works, especially for a crowd of guests with a wide range of tastes.

Contributing to this roundup: In Arizona, Alan M. Hause, Continental Catering, Phoenix; Carolyn Ellis, Arcadia Farms Cafe & Catering Company, Scottsdale. In California: Joann Roth and Robbie O'Brien, Someone's in the Kitchen, Tarzana; Lisa Wilson, Blue Heron Catering, Oakland; Marsha Polk-Townsend, RSVP Catering, Alameda; Paula LeDuc, Paula LeDuc Fine Catering, Emeryville; Zov Karamardian, Zov's Bistro, Tustin. In Portland, Nancy Briggs, Briggs & Crampton; Ron Paul, Ron Paul Charcuterie. In Seattle, Russell Lowell and Jonathan Hunt, Lowell-Thompson Catering; Phyllis Rosen, Catering by Phyllis.

Spiced Flank Steak and

Grapefruit Appetizers

Lisa Wilson, Blue Heron Catering

Cooking time: About 8 minutes Prep time: About 30 minutes Notes: If preferred, grill steak instead of broiling it. Meat can be cooked and grapefruit segmented a day ahead. Makes: 30 to 34 pieces, 15 to 17 appetizer servings

1 flank steak (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb.) 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon cayenne 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves About 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 to 4 pink grapefruit (about 3/4 lb. each) 30 to 34 fresh mint leaves (optional)

1. Trim fat and silvery membrane from steak. Mix cumin, mustard, cinnamon, cayenne, cloves, and 1/2 teaspoon salt, then rub mixture all over steak. Cover and chill at least 15 minutes or up to 2 days. 2. Cut peel and white membrane from grapefruit. Over a bowl, cut between inner membranes and fruit to release segments. If making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day. 3. Broil steak on a rack in a pan about inches from heat until rare in thickest part (cut to test), about 7 minutes, or medium-rare, about 9 minutes; turn once to cook evenly. Let meat stand at least 15 minutes. If making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day. 4. Up to 1 hour before serving, drain grapefruit and save juice for another use Select 30 to 34 of the most attractive grape-fruit segments and lay on towels to drain; lightly blot tops to dry. Save remaining fruit for other uses. 5. Slice meat very thinly across the grain into 30 to 34 equal pieces. Wrap each grapefruit segment with a steak slice and set seam down, on a platter. Tuck a mint leaf into each bundle. Serve, or wrap airtight and chill up to 1 hour. Add salt to taste.

Per 2 pieces: 49 cal., 37% (18 cal.) from fat; 5.1 g protein; 2 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 2.6 g carbo; 80 mg sodium; 12 mg chol.

Date and Chorizo Rumaki

Alan M. Hause, Continental Catering

Cooking time: About 35 minutes Prep time: About 30 minutes Notes: To make a day ahead, assemble rumaki, put in cooking pan, cover and chill, then uncover and bake to serve. Makes: 32 pieces, 16 appetizer servings 16 slices thin-cut bacon (about 3/4 lb.) 1/2 pound raw chorizo sausage 1/4 pound (1/3 cup) cream cheese 32 whole dates, pitted 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Arrange bacon slices in a single layer in a 10-by 15-inch pan. Bake in a 350[degrees] oven for 5 minutes. Discard fat and blot bacon with paper towels. 2. Remove chorizo from casing and crumble into an 8- to 10-inch frying pan. Stir often over medium-high heat until meat is lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Let drain in a fine strainer to remove fat. 3. Mix chorizo with cream cheese. 4. Cut halfway through dates on 1 side to make a pocket in each. Fill dates equally with the cheese mixture. 5. Cut bacon slices in half. Wrap each date with a piece of bacon and secure with a toothpick. Place dates on a rack in the 10-by 15-inch pan. 6. Bake in a 350[degrees] oven until bacon is brown and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes. Sprinkle will cilantro, and serve hot. Per 2 pieces: 130 cal., 52% (68 cal.) from fat; 4 g protein; 7.6 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 12 g carbo.; 205 mg sodium; 19 mg chol.