What's up on the Umpqua? - river canyon in Oregon

Sunset, June, 1996 by Jeff Phillips

"Fishing for summer steelhead is probably the most difficult freshwater fishing in the world," says Jim Van Loan, owner of the Steamboat Inn, the spiritual and temporal heart of the river for nimrods. "You need to be able to cast at least 70 feet using an eight- to nine-weight fly rod, and you need to know where fish are holding. Wading can be tricky. Any shadow will spook fish, putting them down for an hour. Of course," Van Loan adds with a smile, "the challenge is what makes it so attractive."

Those are the verities faced by generations of fly fishers. Of more practical importance today, Van Loan acknowledges, is that this prime fishery has not been immune to the effects of logging, road building, and upstream hydroelectric dams: both salmon and steelhead runs have declined dramatically in recent years. Even with strict fishing regulations and a catch-and-release ethic, the combination of fewer fish and a growing number of fly anglers is a sure recipe for declining hookups.

Things were different in the early 1930s, when word of outstanding summer-long fishing first leaked out, attracting the likes of Zane Grey to camp and fish here. By 1935, guide Clarence Gordon had opened the North Umpqua Lodge on a bend in the river still called Camp Water. After dark, fishermen would gather for a late dinner at a table and benches carved from huge sugar-pine logs.

While Gordon's original lodge is long gone, the store he built across the river near Steamboat Creek eventually became the Steamboat Inn. Today the inn's 15 cabins and rooms are by far the most gracious accommodations on the river. One Steamboat Inn tradition that lingers is the late-evening fishermen's dinner. As dusk deepens, guests (and nonguests with dinner reservations) still gather around the original camp's log table to swap tales about the day's activities while passing heaping platters of food well worth the drive from Roseburg.

Tied to its fishing heritage, the inn offers anglers what any worthy fishing lodge must: inspiration for the morrow. Success may simply lie in a different fly. The shop here sells dozens of patterns, including the Black Gordon, which has been a river classic since it was first tied by Clarence Gordon nearly 60 years ago.

But perhaps you'd be better advised to hire the services of a fishing guide. Summer Run Guide Service (541/496-3037) wilt make sure you're properly outfitted and show you some tricks, for fees starting at $125 for a half-day.

CAMPING, LODGING, AND TRIP-PLANNING HELP

A popular getaway for Oregonians, the North Umpqua boasts several public campgrounds along State 138 (call 800/452-5687), plus campgrounds at Diamond Lake (800/280-2267) near the entrance to Crater Lake National Park. Most fill quickly on summer weekends but remain relatively open midweek, though early arrival to claim a campsite is always recommended.

Lodging along the river is more limited. Rates at the Steamboat Inn (800/840-8825) range from $95 for a motel-style room with a king or queen bed and a river view to $225 for a separate cottage (add $25 for Saturday-only stays). Plan ahead - the inn can fill up weeks in advance at the height of the summer season. Steelhead Run Bed & Breakfast (800/348-0563) near Glide has five clean and functional rooms that range from $65 to $80 in summer.