It's steak season: make the most of it with the right cuts and the best sauces - includes recipes

Sunset, June, 1997 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

In the wild heart of the West, beef steak is still king. At the Big Texan Steak Ranch in Amarillo, Texas, the draw of a free steak continues to pull in customers who can stagger away without a check if they manage to down a 4 1/2-pound platter-size slab of beef and side dishes in an hour. Even less hearty appetites confirm statistics showing that beef is the meat Westerners most like to toss onto the coals. But quantity is no longer the measure of pleasure. And in sensible portions, even die-hard health fanatics have a hard time blacklisting a juicy piece of beef. So baste your steak with favorite seasonings. Or give it a flavorful rub. Then savor steak from the grill, cooked just the way you like it, served plain or with sauces, light to lavish.

The Perfect Grilled Steak

1. Select a 1- to 3-inch-thick beef steak (from chart on page 89).

2. Choose direct or indirect heat and cooking time based on the thickness of meat and desired doneness, using the chart on page 84. If using direct heat, trim excess surface fat from steaks to minimize flare-ups.

3. For the most accurate doneness test, check thick lean cuts - such as top round - with a thermometer instead of touch. They may take a few minutes longer to cook than well-marbled pieces. Thick steaks cooked to rare also include medium to well-done portions around the edges.

4. Transfer steak to a platter; let rest about 5 minutes in a warm place for juices to settle in meat, then cut portions and accompany the beef with one of the following sauces or any favorite steak sauce, or just season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. For a serving, allow 4 ounces fat-trimmed boneless raw steak (about 3 oz. when cooked).

Green Peppercorn Bearnaise

Prep and cook time: About 20 minutes Notes: Cook sauce ahead, then warm on barbecue grill. Stir juices from sliced steak into sauce and serve.

Makes: About 1 1/4 cups; 6 servings

2/3 cup minced shallots

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves or 3/4 teaspoon dried tarragon

1 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons drained canned

green peppercorns, rinsed

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup cognac or brandy

Salt

1. Combine shallots, vinegar, and tarragon in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan. Boil over high heat, stirring often, until all the liquid evaporates, about 2 minutes.

2. Add 1/2 cup cream, peppercorns, and mustard. Boil, stirring often, until cream turns a golden brown, about 8 minutes. Stir in cognac and remaining cream. (If making ahead, set aside up to 2 hours, or cover and chill up to 1 day.)

3. Heat sauce, stirring, until it boils. Add salt to taste.

Per tablespoon: 48 cal., 69% (33 cal.) from fat; 0.4 g protein; 3.7 g fat (2.3 g sat.); 1.3 g carbo (0 g fiber); 71 mg sodium; 13 mg chol.

Sesame-Ginger Sauce

Prep and cook time: About 10 minutes

Notes: Rub steak with soy sauce before grilling to enhance flavor impact of this sauce.

Makes: About 1/2 cup; 3 or 4 servings

1 tablespoon sesame seed

1 teaspoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onion

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 cup sake or dry sherry

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1. In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over high heat, frequently shake sesame seed until lightly toasted, about 4 minutes.

2. Add oil, onion, ginger, and garlic. Stir until onion is limp, 2 to 3 minutes. Add sake, soy, and sugar. Bring to a boil. Serve hot, reheated (on grill), or at room temperature. If making ahead, cover and chill up to 5 days.

Per tablespoon: 46 cal., 22% (9.9 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 1.1 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 4.5 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 260 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Red Wine Glaze

Prep and cook time: About 20 minutes

Notes: Make sauce ahead and reheat on grill. Pour juices from sliced steak into sauce, heat to simmering, and serve.

Makes: About 3/4 cup; 3 or 4 servings

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

3/4 cup minced shallots

1 cup dry red wine

Salt

1. Place a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over high heat. Add butter and shallots, and stir often until shallots are limp, but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Add wine and boil until reduced to about 3/4 cup, about 5 minutes. Add salt to taste. Finish as directed in notes.

Per tablespoon: 26 cal., 65% (17 cal.) from

fat; 0.3 g protein; 1.9 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 2 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 22 mg sodium; 5.2 mg chol.

Spiced Chili Rub

Prep time: About 2 minutes

Notes: For a more distinct chili flavor, use mild California or New Mexico ground chilies instead of seasoned chili powder. Rub into meat; grill. Then squeeze juice from orange wedges onto sliced meat and season with salt. Make a single batch of the rub, or a larger quantity to store airtight indefinitely

Makes: About 1 1/2 tablespoons, enough for 1 steak about 4 by 10 inches

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Mix chili powder, cumin, coriander, and cayenne. Use or store airtight.

Per teaspoon: 6.4 cal., 42% (2.7 cal.) from fat; 0.3 g protein; 0.3 g fat (0 g sat.); 1 g carbo (0.5 g fiber); 15 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.