Summer naturals: salmon and onions - includes recipe

Sunset, June, 1997 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Just how many ways can you cook salmon? Don't ask a Northwesterner unless you have all day; generations' worth of great ideas pour out. Clearly, this fish is versatile - and no shrinking violet when it comes to seasonings. Case in point: smoked salmon, the best of which is cured with salt and sugar. This combination enables the fish to draw flavors to its very core while, simultaneously, it develops a velvety succulence.

Curing is a little bit of food chemistry that I like to utilize when currying salmon. Despite variables in the blends, curry powders have common denominators that enhance salmon. The orange color comes from turmeric, intensifying the salmon's rich color. Cumin, the most overt spice in curry blends, also sets well with salmon. In addition, there are sweet aromatics such as coriander and cardamom. And even if mustard is evident, I like to add more. All its heat, but none of its taste, dissipates in the curing (currying) process.

Grilling is the easiest and most effective way to cook curried salmon. And there is no finer companion than a crisp, mint-cooled relish of summer's sweet onions - Walla Wallas from the Northwest, Mauis from Hawaii, or Imperials from California.

Curry-cured Salmon with Sweet Onion Relish

Prep and cook time: About 25 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to cure

Makes: 8 or 9 servings

1 salmon fillet with skin (2 1/2 to 3 lb.)

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon dry mustard

2 Walla Walla, Maui, or other sweet onions (about 3/4 lb. each)

About 1/3 cup fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar

1 cup ice cubes (optional)

1. Rinse salmon fillet, pat dry, and lay skin down in a rimmed pan.

2. Mix sugar with salt, curry powder, and dry mustard. Pat mixture evenly over top of salmon. Cover and chill 1 to 3 hours. (Coating dissolves.)

3. Peel and thinly slice onions. Chop enough mint to make 2 tablespoons.

4. In a bowl, combine onions, chopped mint, and vinegar. To serve within an hour, add ice. If making ahead, cover and chill relish up to 3 hours; stir occasionally.

5. Rinse salmon under cool running water, rubbing gently to release salt. Set fish, skin down, on a sheet of heavy foil and trim foil to fit outline of fish.

6. Prepare grill for indirect heat.

To use charcoal briquets, ignite 60 briquets on fire grate. When dotted with gray ash, in 20 to 25 minutes, push half the coals to each side of grate. Position grill about 6 inches above grate.

To use a gas grill, turn heat to high, close lid, and heat for at least 10 minutes. Adjust heat for indirect grilling (no flame beneath food).

7. Set salmon in center of grill, not over hot coals or flame. Cover; open vents on charcoal grill. Cook until fish is opaque but still moist-looking in thickest part, 12 to 15 minutes.

8. Slide a large, rimless baking sheet under fish, then slide fish onto a platter. Sprinkle with remaining mint leaves. Lift portions of fish off skin. Serve with onion relish.

Per serving: 225 cal., 33% (74 cal.) from fat; 26 g protein; 8.2 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 11 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 511 mg sodium; 69 mg chol.