Look again at Chenin Blanc - white wine

Sunset, June, 1997 by Karen MacNeil

Chenin Blanc has become the Cinderella of white wines. Until just 10 years ago, there was more of this grape growing in California than Chardonnay. Now it's neglected by most U.S. wineries and is unknown to many wine drinkers. What happened?

It's impossible to say why we become enchanted (or not) with certain kinds of wine. For me, Chenin's current obscurity is about as fathomable as Merlot's current fame.

But no matter. What counts is this: Chenin Blanc not only makes delicious wine but also is one of the world's most prestigious white grapes, considered as capable of greatness as Chardonnay, Riesling, or Sauvignon Blanc. Moreover, savvy wine drinkers know that what's good and what's popular are not necessarily the same thing. Best of all, when a wine falls out of fashion and into the camp of ugly ducklings, that's the time to snap it up. Chenin Blanc is a steal right now.

If Chenin Blanc wasn't Cinderella, it would be Meg Ryan. Charming, sincere, friendly, pretty, and easy to be around. It's exactly the wine you want (1) lying in a hammock, (2) watching an old movie on a Saturday afternoon, (3) after cleaning out the garage, (4) with chicken salad. In other words, Chenin is an effortless wine, welcome in just about any circumstance. I'm talking here about American Chenin Blancs, which come mainly from California, Washington, and Texas. The best of these are fresh wines with lots of appley flavor and, sometimes, a hint of ginger or cinnamon. Poor versions are simply chenin blands.

The world's ultimate Chenin Blancs, however, come from the Loire Valley of France, specifically from the district of Vouvray. These wines are known as Vouvrays, and compared with American Chenin Blancs, they are entirely different animals.

First of all, Vouvrays are highly complex, intriguing, and challenging - more Hillary Clinton than Meg Ryan. They are legendary among all the world's white wines for their flashing, stiletto-sharp acidity. This acidity, which acts like lightning striking right through the middle of the wine, makes Vouvray one of the longest-lived (if not the longest) white wines. It's not uncommon for a 20-year-old Vouvray to taste as lively as a wine a fraction of its age. At the same time, however, an aged Vouvray's flavors take on soaring elegance and a whole new dimension of gorgeous floral, peach, and flint flavors. A great aged Vouvray - 10 years old or more - is an experience every wine drinker should have at least once.

Unfortunately, aged Vouvrays are not well understood (you can imagine the trials of an importer trying to sell a 15-year-old white wine to a retailer). Still, with a little luck, you can find some older Vouvrays around, especially in fine wine shops.

Vouvray is the most famous appellation for Chenin Blanc but not the only one. The neighboring districts of Savennieres, Coteaux du Layon, and Quarts de Chaume also specialize in Chenin Blanc. In fact, one of the most famous wines in the world is Clos de la Coulee de Serrant from Savennieres. This is Chenin Blanc from another galaxy. The wine is so suffused with apple and caramel flavors, you feel as though you're inside a tarte Tatin.

Finally, Chenin Blancs are made in an entire range of sweetnesses - from bone-dry to quite sweet. In the United States, most are dry or semi-dry. In France, every style is popular. You'll know the wine is sweet by the designation moelleux on the label.

Champalou Vouvray 1994, $14 (Vouvray, France). Outrageously alive. Crushed minerals, earth, and laser beams of tart acidity.

Chappellet Dry Chenin Blanc 1995, $10 (Napa Valley, California). Lovely and zesty. Begging for grilled fish.

Chappellet Old Vine Coulee 1995, $12 (Napa Valley). Slightly more sophisticated than its little sister above. Wonderful spiced-apple flavors. A scrumptious aperitif.

Clos de la Coulee de Serrant 1992, $39 (Savennieres, France). Considered the greatest Chenin in the world. Difficult to find, but worth the effort.

Girard Dry Chenin Blanc "Old Vines" 1995, $8.50 (Napa Valley). Simple, fresh, and very pleasing.

Husch Chenin Blanc 1996, $8.50 (Mendocino, California). Refreshing and gingery with a slight spritz.

Prince Poniatowski Clos Baudoin 1992, $18 (Vouvray). Philippe Poniatowski, a descendant of the last royal family of Poland, makes opulent, vivid Vouvrays that taste best when aged five years or more.

WINE DICTIONARY

AGING

Intentionally keeping a wine for a period of time so that the components in it can coalesce and the wine can grow softer and possibly take on more integrated flavors and more complexity. Wine may be aged in barrel or bottle or both (the wine evolves differently in each vessel). Most of the wines in the world are not aged at all. - K. M.