Sample the wine country's off-season pleasures

Sunset, Wntr, 1992

In the Napa Valley, Southern California, and the Northwest, wineries invite visitors to enjoy their quiet months and share their holiday spirit

A waiting winter pruning, the vineyards are at rest, with early mustard blooming between the rows and a few crimson leaves remaining on the vines. The main roads are lightly trafficked--as are popular restaurants. B & Bs and inns are easy to book. It's the quiet season in the wine country.

After the fall crush--a word that suits the tourist traffic as well as the first stage of winemaking--the pace relaxes. So do the tour guides. They're glad for the chance to chat with small groups, answer questions, maybe pour a barrel sample of a wine in progress.

Come Thanksgiving and Christmas, wineries welcome the holidays in various ways. You'll find special bottlings and gift packs prepared with the season in mind. Grapevine wreaths lend their festive touches to cellar doorways and tasting room bars.

The agricultural valleys have other seasonal treats in store. You're likely to come across a Christmas tree farm where the kids can seek out the perfect evergreen. Make a stop or two at country stores, where local specialties and regional crafts give you new inspirations for gifts. And, depending on the area, make plans for a scenic ride: by bike or balloon, by train or sleigh.

Here we focus on the particular pleasures of three wine regions--the Napa Valley, Southern California, and the Northwest. For more details about wineries in California, see Sunset's Wine Country book ($11.95). Another good resource, updated annually, is The Wine Spectator's Wine Country Guide to California ($4.95). For a guide to wineries in Washington, Oregon, and Idaho, we recommend Northwest Wine Country, by Ronald and Glenda Holden ($15.95). You'll find these guides in many bookstores and wine shops.

The Napa Valley

For many people, wine country is synonymous with Northern California's Napa Valley. No wonder, given the concentration of more than 250 wineries here, within a 2-hour drive of San Francisco.

After summer's highway-clogging crowds, winter brings a particularly welcome change of pace. But be prepared to take the weather as you find it: clear, fog-free days for outdoor outings, or drenching squalls ideally ridden out in the wine cellars and country inns.

The valley is best seen on a two- to three-day visit. You have a wide choice of accommodations and restaurants, many of them charming, memorable, and--prepare yourself--expensive. Top-rated inns with upscale comforts and vineyard settings commonly charge between $100 and $200 (and in some cases more) for a night's lodging. You'll find the widest selection of less expensive motels and eateries, including fast-food chains, in the town of Napa.

Many lodgings offer winter discounts, and some drop their normal two-night minimum. Some restaurants and inns, however, close from Thanksgiving to the end of the year. For lodging and dining choices, call these chambers of commerce (area code is 707): Calistoga, 942-6333; Napa, 226-7455; St. Helena, (800) 767-8528; Yountville, 944-0904.

Most wineries are clustered along two highways--State 29 and 121--that run the length of the valley. For a free map showing all the wineries you can visit, call 963-0148.

Some 25 percent of sparkling wine is sold for the holidays. You can get in the spirit with a tour or tasting at any of these champagne houses (tasting charge is by the glass):

Domaine Carneros (257-0101); 1240 Duhig Road in Napa. Open 10:30 to 4:30 daily; tours on the hour from 11 to 4, tasting ($4).

Domaine Chandon (944-2280); California Drive in Yountville. Open 11 to 6 Wednesdays through Sundays; tours, tasting ($3 to $5), gift shop, restaurant.

Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars (963-2334); east end of Larkmead Lane in St. Helena. Open 10 to 4:30 daily; tours, tasting (free).

Mumm Napa Valley (942-3434); 8445 Silverado Trail in Napa. Open 11 to 6 daily; tours, tasting ($3.50 to $5).

Schramsberg (942-4558); in St. Helena. Tours by appointment only; no tasting.

Country shopping

Many wineries have well-stocked gift shops that feature local products and wine paraphernalia. For other holiday gift ideas, one of the best places to browse is St. Helena's six-block Main Street, where an eclectic mix of shops--from country hardware to gourmet cookware to antiques--serves the needs of locals and tourists.

In Yountville, check the Washington Street art galleries, as well as Vintage 1870, a collection of shops stocked with gifts, collectibles, and clothes. In Napa, stroll along Main Street between First and Fifth streets for antiques and art galleries.

As you drive through the valley, look for interesting roadside wares. Napa Valley Grapevine Wreath Company, on State 29 just north of Rutherford, sells handmade wreaths of Cabernet Sauvignon prunings. At other growers, you can cut your own Christmas tree, or buy kiwi fruit, persimmons, or walnuts. For a free map of farms that sell to the public, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to Napa Farming Trails, 4075 Solano Ave., Napa 94558.