Enjoying the high life and the low desert in the Coachella Valley

Sunset, Wntr, 1992

Seen from the air, Southern California's Coachella Valley appears stitched together in a quiltwork of contrasts across the Colorado Desert. The first incongruity you notice is the verdure of vegetation poaching on desert sand.

Described by a government expedition more than a hundred years ago as "an immense waste of uninhabited country," this 25-mile stretch from Palm Springs southeast to Indio now supports 75 velvety golf courses. And what isn't green, it seems, is blue: 10,000 swimming pools and dozens of artificial lakes, streams, and cascades punctuate resort and condominium complexes.

Credit a giant aquifer (16 billion acre-feet) for metamorphosing a pristine desert into a semitropical fantasy-land in less than 50 years. Today, the valley lures winter vacationers with diverse activities, from riding the desert range with a real cowboy to floating in a pool under snow-frosted peaks.

The winter season--with 70|degrees~ to 80|degrees~ days--kicks off in November. Thanksgiving books up early, but Christmas-time lodging is generally easy to get as late as early December.

Peak season coincides with the Bob Hope golf tournament in February and runs through March; best bets then are mega-resorts and smaller condominiums. April brings college crowds on spring break.

Among the many resorts, we mention some of the most distinctive. Their minimum rates range from $175 to $275 October through May, with considerable price jumps starting in January. The telephone area code is 619.

Palm Springs' small-town charms

A certain small-town atmosphere still remains in Palm Springs. Eighty percent of the hotels (the word motel is banned on signs) are small affairs with fewer than 50 rooms. One is the 56-year-old Ingleside Inn (200 W. Ramon Road; 325-0046), where Clark Gable and Carol Lombard honeymooned.

For an introduction to the Coachella Valley, visit the Palm Springs Desert Museum (101 Museum Drive; 325-7186). Besides displaying some 1,300 American Indian artifacts, it sponsors the best nature field trips in the valley.

Among numerous bikeways, try the Canyon Country Club loop--a 4 1/2-mile ride away from busy traffic; the recreation department (323-8272) has free maps. Rentals are available from many bicycle shops and some resorts.

Smoke Tree Stables (2500 Toledo Avenue; 327-1372) offers horseback rides to the Indian Canyons.

You can make Palm Springs hotel, tour, and activity reservations through the visitor center: (800) 347-7746.

Exclusive Rancho Mirage

Rancho Mirage reflects the glamour of desert life. Street names boast of celebrity residents such as Dinah Shore and Bob Hope, and three main resorts immerse visitors in luxury.

Marriott's Rancho Las Palmas (41000 Bob Hope Drive; 568-2727) has sprawling haciendas well suited to families. The Westin Mission Hills (Dinah Shore and Bob Hope drives; 328-5955), distinguished by its Moroccan-style buildings, reopened in 1991.

The sumptuous Ritz-Carlton (68900 Frank Sinatra Drive; 321-8282) backs up to a 900-acre refuge for bighorn sheep, which regularly visit the hotel. To catch a glimpse, reserve for Sunday brunch ($32).

Our favorite bike trail (6 1/2 miles) offers a look at action on such famous private links as Morningside and Tamarisk. It begins at Wolfson Park (Frank Sinatra and Da Vall drives).

The Palm Springs Desert Resorts Convention and Visitors Bureau is the best source of information on lodging, dining, and activities. It's at Suite 201 in the Atrium Building, 69930 Highway 111; 770-9000. Hours are 8:30 to 5 weekdays.

Palm Desert: the center of activity

This is the heart of the valley, with a proliferation of condos, resorts, and golf courses. The valley's largest megaresort is the 895-room Marriott Desert Springs (74855 Country Club Drive; 341-2211), which is surrounded by 23 acres of waterways, including a lake that starts in the lobby and extends outdoors for 3 miles.

Palm Desert's vast supply of condos, popular with families, gives the town a residential feel. It also helps bring traffic to a standstill: take alternate routes to State 111 whenever possible.

Eight blocks of shops, restaurants, and galleries make palm-lined El Paseo the desert's Rodeo Drive. To see the real desert, visit the Living Desert (47900 Portola Avenue), a 1,200-acre wildlife and botanical park. Hours are 9 to 5 daily; admission is $6 adults, $3 children.

Old California in La Quinta

Both the town of La Quinta and its world-famous resort capture the elegance and intimacy of the old valley.

La Quinta Hotel (49499 Eisenhower Drive; 564-4111) was built 67 years ago at the foot of the Santa Rosa Mountains, which is still one of the valley's most beautiful settings. Spanish-style cottages are scattered around desert gardens and 25 pools.

To sample the area, take a cowboy-led ride at the Ranch of the 7th Range (777-7777). Ponies are available for children as young as 5.

Indio's farming culture

The valley's oldest city is also "Date Capital of the World," and several growers here sell directly to customers. One of the oldest is Shields Date Gardens (80225 Highway 111; 347-0996). The annual date festival will be February 12 through 21 in 1993.