Western ways with rice paper cheese sticks to banana turnovers - recipes

Sunset, March, 1984

Western ways with rice paper . . . cheese sticks to banana turnovers

Thin, translucent rounds of brittle rice paper are frequently used by the Vietnamese to wrap food for eating. The mildtasting wrappers also suit Western flavors. Moistened, the paper becomes soft and flexible; when fried, it turns crisp.

To make the rounds, a mixture of rice, water, and salt is dried on bamboo mats. As the paper-thin rounds dry, the cross-hatch pattern of the mats is imprinted onto the paper.

Rice paper comes in rounds of three different sizes, as shown above right. The largest rounds are also cut into quarters to make triangular pieces. Most rice paper is imported from Thailand; you can find it in many Asian (especially Vietnamese) markets. It keeps almost indefinitely when stored tightly wrapped in a dry place. When removed from the package, pieces almost immediately start to curl up; keep them wrapped, and remove them from the package just before using.

Traditionally, rice paper is used to make Vietnamese spring rolls. Triangles of the paper are intricately wrapped around a pork and shrimp filling to make tight cylinders, then fried. We have simplified the wrapping process, substituting the small rounds of paper for the triangles. With the very thin rice paper, these spring rolls are lighter and erisper than the Chinese version. Look for bean thread noodles, black fungus, fish sauce, and other spring roll ingredients in Asian markets.

You can also use rice paper in simpler ways. Roll it around cheese and bake for crisp-chewy cheese straws. Moisten and wrap around a ham filling for a cold appetizer or a light lunch entree. Use it like an edible parchment paper wrapped around a chicken breast with cheese and baked. Or fold it around a banana and fry for crisp turnovers.

Cheese Sticks

8 rice paper rounds (6 1/2- or 8 1/2-in. size)

Water

2 tablespoons melted butter

1 1/2 to 2 cups (6 to 8 oz.) shredded Cheddar cheese

Brush both sides of rice paper with water; let stand until soft and pliable, about 1 minute. Lightly brush 1 side with melted butter, then sprinkle cheese (3 tablespoons for 6 1/2-in. size, 1/4 cup for 8 1/2-in. size) over surface. Roll up tightly. Place on a lightly greased 10- by 15-inch pan.

Brush top with melted butter. Bake in a 350| oven until crisp, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on racks briefly, then stand upright in a glass to drain off excess fat. Serve freshly baked, warm or cool. Makes 8.

Chicken Cheese Packets

4 rice paper rounds (13-in. size)

Water

3 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

8 large spinach leaves

2 whole chicken breasts (1 lb. each), split, skinned, and boned

3 1/2 ounces (1/2 cup) creamy garlic-herb cheese

Parsley sprigs (optional)

Brush both sides of rice paper with water; let stand until pliable, about 1 minute. Lightly brush one side with melted butter. Set 2 spinach leaves about 2 inches in from one side (see picture on page 196). Place chicken breast half on spinach; spread top with about 2 tablespoons of the cheese. Set 1 parsley sprig on top. Fold end of rice paper over chicken, then fold in sides; roll over to enclose. Place slightly apart, seam side down, on a lightly greased 10- by 15-inch shallow baking pan. Brush top of packets with melted butter. (If done ahead, cover and chill up to 12 hours.) Bake in a 375| oven until light gold, 25 to 30 minutes. (Packet may split slightly on side.) Serve at once. Makes 4.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls

3 dozen rice paper rounds (6-in. size), about 8 ounces

Water

Pork and shrimp filling (recipe follows)

1 egg white, slightly beaten Salad oil

3 dozen butter lettuce leaves

3 dozen mint sprigs

Dipping sauce (recipe follows)

Working with 3 or 4 rice paper rounds at a time, brush both sides of the paper with water and let stand in a single layer until pliable, about 1 minute. Keep remaining rice papers in package until ready to use.

Shape 1 tablespoon of the pork and shrimp filling into a 2-inch-long log and center it horizontally about 1 1/2 inches from one side. Fold edge of paper nearest filling over meat mixture, fold in sides, roll up, moisten end with egg white, and seal. Place slightly apart in a single layer on baking pans; lightly cover with plastic wrap. Repeat until all are filled.

In a deep 3- to 4-quart pan, heat 1 1/2 to 2 inches oil to 325|. Add 6 to 8 rolls and fry, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Lift out and drain on paper towels. Keep warm in a 200| oven until all are done. (If made ahead, cool, cover, and chill or freeze. To reheat, thaw if frozen and bake, uncovered, in a 350| oven until hot, about 10 minutes.)

To eat, place a roll on a lettuce leaf, top with a mint sprig, wrap lettuce around roll, and dip in sauce. Makes 3 dozen. For appetizers, allow about 3 per person. Vietman Restaurant, Menlo Park, Calif.

Pork and shrimp filling. Soak 3 or 4 large dried black fungus (also called cloud ears) and 1 ounce bean threads in warm water to cover until soft, about 20 minutes. Remove and discard hard knobby center from fungus; cut remaining portion into thin shreds about 1 inch long. Drain and cut bean threads into 1-inch lengths.