Southeast Asians have their own ways with rice … spiced, yellow, "sticky." - recipes

Sunset, April, 1984

The cornerstone of most Southeast Asian meals, rice has a neutral flavor that balances and tempers the spicy foods of this region. Here we show three ways of preparing this stample. See pages 126 through 136 for dishes to serve with rice.

In Laos and northern Thailand, people prefer glutinous (sweet) rice that is steamed in a cone-shaped basket set in a pot (pictured on page 236). The cooked rice sticks together, making it easy to eat with fingers, the method preferred by many Southeast Asians. You pinch the rice into small balls and use them to press against and gather bits of food.

Glutinous rice is also well liked in other countries, steamed in leaves or used to make deserts--a favorite is coconut milk poured over the rice to eat with mangoes.

But plain long-grain white rice is the most popular, usually boiled or steamed. In the last two recipes, you season and spice the rice; both dishes make good companions for roasts and barbecued meats. Laotian Sticky rice (Khao nyao)

soak 2 cups glutinous rice (sweet rice) in water to cover until rice breaks easily when pinched with your fingernail, at least 1 hour or as long as overnight. Drain rice, rinse well, and drain again.

Place rice in a Laotian rice steamer basket, metal colander, or large wire sieve. Set basket over a 3- to 5-quart pan holding 2 to 3 inches of boiling water. Pan rim should hold basket above water. Steam uncovered, adding more boiling water if needed, for 20 minutes. Stir rice lightly so rice on bottom is now on top. Continue steaming until rice is tender, about 5 minutes more if using Laotian steamer (20 to 30 minutes more if using colander or sieve, stirring every 10 minutes).

Transfer rice with a wet spoon onto a wet, shallow bamboee tray or pan. Lift and turn rice for 2 to o minutes to cool slightly. Place into individual baskets or 1 large serving basket. Cover and serve warm. Makes 4 cups, 4 to 6 servings. Malaysian Spiced Rice (Nasi minyak) 3 cups long-grain white rice Water 1/3 cup (about 3/8 lb.) butter or margarine 2 tablespoons minced shallots 2 cloves garlic, minced or mashed 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger 3/4 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 2 whole star anise 1 cinnamon stick, 2-inch size 3 whole cloves 3 whole cardamon pods, split

Rinse rice with water until water is clear; drain and set aside. In a 5- to 6-quart pan, melt butter; add shallots, garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin, star anise, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamon. cook on low heat, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in rice, then add 5 cups water. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook on low heat until rice is tender to bit, about 20 minutes. Stir lightly with a fork and serve, laying some of the whole spices on top. Makes 8 1/2 cups, 8 to 10 servings. Indonesian Yellow Rice (Nasi Kuning) 3 cups long-grain white rice 1 1/2 cups coconut milk (see page 228) 3 cups water 1 tablespoon ground turmeric 1 stalk fresh or dry lemon grass (or yellow part of peel from 1 lemon) 1 slice dry galangal or 1/4 teaspoon ground laos (or 1 thin slice fresh ginger, about the size of a quarter) 1 bay leaf Salt Tomato and cucumber slices

In a 2- to 3-quart pan, combine rice, coconut milk, water, turmeric, lemon gras, galangal, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook, uncovered, until liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes. cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until rice is tender to bite, 15 to 20 minutes. Add salt to taste. Remove lemon grass, galangal, and bay leaf. Fluff rice with a fork, then shape into a cone on a serving plate. Garnish with tomato and cucumber. Makes about 7 1/2 cups, 7 to 10 servings.